Amount needed to reload in order to make my money back?

[Dr. Strangelove]

Before I start down the reloading process (well, getting my own setup over borrowing a mates!), I was wondering if the calculations I've done regarding cost are accurate...?

Unsurprisingly, I'll be reloading for .303! I can get factory S&B for 54p/round from the NRA office (for the time being!).

Therefore, working out costs I've come up with:

TR140 (http://www.itlshootingsupplies.co.uk/page12.htm) at £55/kg gives 15,342 grains. Using a figure plucked out of the air, 41 grains, that's 376 charges per £55, or 15p per charge.

Primers - same page as above, Gynex large rifle, £28/1000 so 2.8p/primer.

Bullets - PPU 174gr (http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php?mai ... ts_id=2513) at, for arguments sake, 20p per bullet (inc postage).

Brass - I have a shed load so no cost.

That's 37.8p per round. Not too bad!

However, the bulk of the cost is the kit itself. I've been advised by a good friend to 'go green' and buy RCBS. I'd probably opt for this - http://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/prodde ... chuckerkit so £340. Another £60 for the tumbler and £40 for neck sizing dies (http://www.guns.gb.com/contents/en-uk/p144.html) and that's £440 total.

Therefore, at a saving of 16.2p per round, I figure I'll have to reload a total of 2,716 times to make my money back ((440/16.2) x 100)! Is that the case?

Please be patient - I'm a maths numpty but I think I've done all of that correctly!

[dodgyrog]

Before I start down the reloading process (well, getting my own setup over borrowing a mates!), I was wondering if the calculations I've done regarding cost are accurate...?

Unsurprisingly, I'll be reloading for .303! I can get factory S&B for 54p/round from the NRA office (for the time being!).

Therefore, working out costs I've come up with:

TR140 (http://www.itlshootingsupplies.co.uk/page12.htm) at £55/kg gives 15,342 grains. Using a figure plucked out of the air, 41 grains, that's 376 charges per £55, or 15p per charge.

Primers - same page as above, Gynex large rifle, £28/1000 so 2.8p/primer.

Bullets - PPU 174gr (http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php?mai ... ts_id=2513) at, for arguments sake, 20p per bullet (inc postage).

Brass - I have a shed load so no cost.

That's 37.8p per round. Not too bad!

However, the bulk of the cost is the kit itself. I've been advised by a good friend to 'go green' and buy RCBS. I'd probably opt for this - http://www.opticswarehouse.co.uk/prodde ... chuckerkit so £340. Another £60 for the tumbler and £40 for neck sizing dies (http://www.guns.gb.com/contents/en-uk/p144.html) and that's £440 total.

Therefore, at a saving of 16.2p per round, I figure I'll have to reload a total of 2,716 times to make my money back ((440/16.2) x 100)! Is that the case?

Please be patient - I'm a maths numpty but I think I've done all of that correctly!

I keep saying it, WHY do you insist on using jacketed bullets when cast lead alloy boolits are cheaper and just as accurate?

[Alpha1]

If your only aim in reloading ammo is to save money my advice is to forget it and just purchase enough ammo for your shooting needs.
I probably dont save any money by re loading because I buy the best quality components I can afford. I dont skimp on bullits for my centre fire stuff. I have no idea how much it costs to reload a particular round and I dont care. I enjoy re loading its a hobby in its self the end result makes it worth while tight groups.
It should not be about saving money my freind if it is dont even go there.

[Alpha1]

I keep saying it, WHY do you insist on using jacketed bullets when cast lead alloy boolits are cheaper and just as accurate?

You are right Rog but calibrating the sights on a millitary rifle and most of my stuff is milsurps is a long and pain taking process and the learning curve with cast boolits is not for the new reloader in my opinion.
Slugging barrels setting up and finding the time to cast resize gas check etc etc. is a whole new ball game for the new to reloading guys.
Your cast boolits are the bees knees Rog but if I was going to order from you for my smle for instance I would be asking you to size them to .314 a new be would not have that degree of expertise we need to educate them first. Actually the first thing we need to get over to them is that it is NOT about saving money it is about acheiving tight groups.

[Dr. Strangelove]

Rog - fair point. Do cast boolits give comparable accuracy out to, say, 1000yards? That's what distance I hope to be shooting my Ross!

Alpha - again, fair point. I can see it turning into a hobby - I'd want to achieve the most accurate round possible so may try out the Sierra Matchking .303s and see if they make a noticeable difference.
And I'll be slugging my bore as soon as I can get something suitable to use as a slug! Any suggestions? I saw something online recommending 1/8oz egg sinkers as they're pretty close to .311" but my local fishing shop had none.
Can the MkVII round be replicated with a cast boolit?

[phaedra1106]

I tried the PPU 175gr in .30, not consistent in my Steyr at all, bullet length differed by up to 1mm. The PPU 168 match were better but at 23p a bullet I could get Nosler 167gr Custom Competition 10p a shot cheaper which are a superb bullet.

My cost for reloaded high quality .308 is £32 x 100, 15p for 41gr or TR140, 3p for primer and 14p for the bullet, less than half the price of PPU match and a damn site more accurate.

The cost of the kit (in my case) was quite cheap as I bring it back from the US at half the price it is here and as I load .308, 9mm and .44mag it pays for itself quicker as it's saving me money on 3 calibers

[Col]

may I ask,where do you get those Nosler bullets from, I use PPU 168s and would love to find cheaper,and if as you say better I think its time for a change

[dromia]

I do not know any one that handloads to save money..

Handloading can allow you to shoot more for the £, give greater accuracy in your guns than bought ammunition because you can tailor the round and components to your rifle and application, it will help you understand and appreciate your firearms better, it is a rewarding pastime and area of study in it self and can give a lifetime of fun and enjoyment.

Those are some the reasons I handload.

If you just want to save money then don't bother.

[dromia]

For barrel slugging well oiled, over size, lead, round balls are just fine.

Thats what I use.

[dromia]

When I used to shoot classic rifle competitions out to 1000 yrds I used my own cast boolits with good accuracy, consistent 2" 100 yrds groups in my regulated No1, a P14, a No4T and my Ross MK11.

For that I needed three different moulds made to fit the throats of the rifles, I was lucky in that one mould design fitted two throats. Each cost around $100 US posted, you will also need a properly ductile alloy, I like to use babbit metal with a small copper content. I have recently acquired a small furnace that will melt copper so I can make my own copper content alloy now, just need to get the burners converted for butane.

The boolits were 190 grain for the No 1 and the No4T as theyhad barrels with no throat wear so I couldn't get the boolits any heavier, the other two moulds dropped 220 grain boolits which is the weight I like for 1000yrd shooting, velocity is 2,250 - 2,3000 fps. All boolits are sized to 0.315" and gas checked.