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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should treated as suspect and not used.
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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
dromia wrote:I have Pacific, Lyman - motorised, Forster, Lee, Redding and Bonanza trimmers. The most consistent for length are the Forster, Bonanza.
My take on consistency is how the case is held in the trimmer, all the trimmers trim to the same length on the trimmer as the cutting length is fixed on them all.
The difference in length after trimming is related to the variable rim thickness of the case. The Lyman and the Pacific for example hold the case by pressing the forward facing part of the rim against a shell holder or adjustable shellholder type as in the Lyman. Therefore the constant cutting length is from the front part of the rim to the case mouth. The actual measured overall length is from the back of the rim to the case mouth, therefore any variation in rim thickness is not taken account of when you set up these cutters and this variation is refelected when you measure the final length.
The Forster uses a collet that grips the case rim round its circumference therefore when setting these types up the cutting length is set from the actual base of the case, which you measure case length from, not the front the front of the rim where you don't measure case length from.
The little Bonanza just has small and large primer pins that the case sits on and provided the pockets are swaged consistently then it works very well indeed.
So if I want great consistency then its the Forster or Bonanza, for bulk work and getting military brass down to almost minimum case length I use the Lyman and finish on the Bonanza or Forster. The Pacific is set up to trim .577" Snider and like calibre brass where the odd though difference isn't so much of an issue.
So when looking for a trimmer I would recommend those that set their cutting length from the base of the case not the fron of the rim.
If you are happy about the consistency of your case rims them any type will do.
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Hope this makes sense.
The Wilson type use a different case holder approach and seem to work very well although the case holders can be very expensive especially if you load for many calibres
The reason I like the Wilson system is that the case holder supports the case for practically its full length and it is clamped to two steel rails thus guaranteeing that the case to be trimmed is presented squarely to the face of the cutter. And is held firmly whilst it is being trimmed. Looking at an old Reloading solutions price list (2003, which is probably when I bought my kit) I see that the Wilson case trimmer with clamping mount cost £55.00 and a cartridge case holder in 308win cost £5.26 these prices are inclusive of VAT, but do not include postage/shipping. Incidentally I have always found Reloading Solutions good people to deal with.
On the subject of case length, I wondered what was the maximum length case the chamber of my 6.5x55se Blaser Match barrel could accommodate. So utilising a Stoney Point OAL Gauge I knocked up this gauge to measure it. Did the knowledge gained assist me in gaining even the tiniest increase in accuracy................. Nah! :lol: :lol: :lol:
Well at least you know when your cases need trimming. I made my own OAL guage after getting a shock when i went to buy a tap for my Stoney point. A mate gave me an 8mm fine tap and die and off I went to the shed to make this. Now I can tap any case I have to suit which is good with fire formed special.
It is also a lot more fun to make your own things if you have the equipment, I have a small Unimat 3 lathe that is great for this sort of thing.
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Du lytter aldrig til de ord jeg siger. Du ser mig kun for det tøj jeg har paa ...
ovenpaa wrote:Well at least you know when your cases need trimming. I made my own OAL guage after getting a shock when i went to buy a tap for my Stoney point. A mate gave me an 8mm fine tap and die and off I went to the shed to make this. Now I can tap any case I have to suit which is good with fire formed special.
It is also a lot more fun to make your own things if you have the equipment, I have a small Unimat 3 lathe that is great for this sort of thing.
Ovenpaa..
SNAP! I wish I could say that I made mine, but i didn't. I bought it with a bundle of 270win reloading kit.
Thanks for the feedback. And yes I understand what you're saying about where to trim from.
Will look into the websites you've suggested too.
Just one more question about cases again. I use another hand held tool for clearing out the much from the primer hole, its not paricularly good at the job so was wondering what better tools/ways there are for doing it. I have a tool that keeps the flash hole clean/clear which seems to work fine.
I use a primer uniformer carefully in a cordless screwdriver to ensure all pockets are cut to the same depth (SincInt) and then by hand to remove carbon after every firing. I also de-burr the inside of the flash hole.
/d
Du lytter aldrig til de ord jeg siger. Du ser mig kun for det tøj jeg har paa ...
TobyH wrote:Thanks for the feedback. And yes I understand what you're saying about where to trim from.
Will look into the websites you've suggested too.
Just one more question about cases again. I use another hand held tool for clearing out the much from the primer hole, its not paricularly good at the job so was wondering what better tools/ways there are for doing it. I have a tool that keeps the flash hole clean/clear which seems to work fine.
Just one more question about cases again. I use another hand held tool for clearing out the much from the primer hole, its not paricularly good at the job so was wondering what better tools/ways there are for doing it. I have a tool that keeps the flash hole clean/clear which seems to work fine.
Toby..
I'm guessing that when you say primer hole you are referring to the primer pocket. Once again I'm guessing that the tool you are using looks like this...
I only use mine when the primer pocket is really dirty. I take it out of the handle and put it in a hand held drill. I always use it on new cartridge cases after they have been fired once (to unify seating depth and to remove any high spots) I use the tool for clearing the flash hole each time I prep a cartridge case.
I use the Giraud case trimmer, brilliant pice of kit. Dies for each caliber are around $30 but man it is so worth it. As it trims if chamfer & deburs as well. Send the guy a trimmed case and he'll set the die up for you. I can trim around a thousand .223 cases in about an hour or so.
BTW in the photo it's laying on it's side, I use mine with the die facing upwards. I suppose it would work either way.
