what fixings for safe to thermal block wall

[Primer]

Hi all,

Got my new gun safe and ammo safe yesterday and went to fix them to the wall today and I found I have that awful thermal block wall behind the plasterboard stud wall, I wasn't expecting that as I have normal concrete breezeblock on the internal wall between next door that my other gunsafe is fitted to.

So any ideas as to what fixings to use as I don't think the sleeved anchor bolts I have are suitable now?

Thanks in advance

[billgatese30]

Epoxy and some studding will be your best bet into thermal blocks as they will more than likely crack/crumble under anchor bolts.

[Dangermouse]

No more nails?

I have heard that a seal of no more nails would fool the most physical of inspections, but being good old law abiding types we spend a fortune on chemical bolts as well,

DM

[kennyc]

this and some suitably sized studs and nutswill do the job

[SloeginBill]

If Its a stud wall then best bet is to cut out one section of the plasterboard, fit somes additional full length of 4x2 to the insides of the existing studs and a couple of noggins and then seal it up with some 1/2" ply wood. If you space the noggins at the right height you will be able to secure the cab with coach screws straight into them. If not then use large short full thread wood screws ( drill a few more clearance holes as most cabs only give you 4) and a good layer of Grip fill (only if you intend to leave it there forever though).

[Primer]

Thanks for the replies guys, looks like I have a trip to screwfix tomorrow then.

Not rely viable to start chopping the plasterboard about as we rent the house, even though our landlords said treat the place as our own.

I can see it being a ballache if we move though as I would need to either cut the studs off flush with the wall to fill and paint over.

[SloeginBill]

If you are in rented then find a stud and put 2 coach screws straight into that and then secure to the floor as well - preferably into a floor joist not just a board or evn worse, chipboard. No visible damage that can't be fixed with a pea of polyfilla when you move, except may be the short length of skirting that you had to remove to get it flush with the wall.....

[Primer]

If you are in rented then find a stud and put 2 coach screws straight into that and then secure to the floor as well - preferably into a floor joist not just a board or evn worse, chipboard. No visible damage that can't be fixed with a pea of polyfilla when you move, except may be the short length of skirting that you had to remove to get it flush with the wall.....

I've had a torch out and looked in the hole I drilled and it actually doesn't look like a stud wall onto the block wall now
As there is not much of a gap between the plasterboard and block wall, the thermal block is obviously so soft I didn't realise I was drilling into anything, so the plasterboard must be adhered onto the blocks with dabs of something.

Would Araldite do the same job as the resin stuff as I can acquire some of that from work along with long applicator nozzles?

[Lee]

Have a look in the screwfix catalog at the chemical fixing systems.
They have the advantage of not over stressing the block like expanding or screw bolts

[Polchraine]

What you have are Thermalite blocks to ensure the thermal characteristics meet building regs and then a blobs of adhesive on the wall to which the board is fixed - quicker and cheaper than conventional plastering. The internal concrete blocks are cheaper and may also have additional structural requirements.

I have recently fitted a large amount of cladding to Thermalite blocks and used Fischer SXRs:

http://apps.fischer.de/poc/default.aspx ... EKAT-HK-EN

They are an expanding type but Fischer Technical support confirmed that they are appropriate for the blocks.