Anodising in the shed

[John25]

I got in to 'F' class when, over a few beers with Mik in the L&M one night, he asked if it was true that I had hit three successive 'V' bulls at 900x with my number five look alike.

I said yes, no sling, no rest, post foresight, three on the trot.

Then, to take the whatsit, I said that I was planning to put a scope on it and shoot FTR.

He offered to lend me a 6.5 and make me some ammo, that was it, hooked.

Phoenix, FTR, Indian No.5 with a barrel like a rusty gas pipe, bipod fixed with gaffa tape (wouldn't want to spoil the wood) - thinks :G

At least I would probably get some very sympathetic looks?

stgeo

[Christel]

Not those parts, at least I hope not :shock:
:lol:

And, having had the same initial reaction to Dave's plans, I dare to ask without any intention to cause offence, are you having anything done Christel or are you waiting to see how Dave's parts turn out? sign01

We'll start with some scrap metal me thinks :)
If we get to master the art of anodising I was thinking that the bipod Ovenpaa built for me should be dipped into the solution at some point.

[1066]

I've had a dabble at "shed anodising" and quite pleased with the results for small parts. If you want to have a go then you really do need to be in the shed - don't be tempted to try this in the kitchen - it involves nasty stuff and choking fumes and as we are all grown up I needn't mention gloves and goggles etc.

You will need:
Caustic soda (most hardware shops)
Sulphuric acid (B & Q)
Distilled water (Halfords)
DC power supply. (Battery charger)

The basic routine is to prepare your aluminum to the finish you want.
Degrease and wash in distilled water
Soak it in the caustic soda (This will fizz and give off hydrogen)
Wash off in distilled water
Connect your part to DC supply + and place it in a bath of sulphuric acid also in the acid bath you need an anode connected to the DC-. Leave there for 1/2 hour or so, depends on the power supply and the size of the part and the strength of the acid.
Wash off with distilled water
Place part in dye (1/2 hour)
Boil part in water for 1/2 hour to fix dye.

Thats the routine I used.

(as a by-product I have also had some fun filling bin liners with hydrogen made from lathe shaving and caustic soda)

[ovenpaa]

1066, are you warming the dye solution or doing it at room temperature and what are using to polish the anodised finish?

That reminds me, I need to PM you on something.

[1066]

1066, are you warming the dye solution or doing it at room temperature and what are using to polish the anodised finish?

That reminds me, I need to PM you on something.

I'm using the dyes cold - The only dyes I have found to work are the dylon fabric dyes in the small round tins - These are getting hard to find now as the company has been taken over and the new dyes in the plastic packets are not the same although the salesmen insist they are.
They are still available here:
http://www.fabricdyes.co.uk/fabric_desi ... eid=3#info

The finish luster depends a bit on how it was before it went into the caustic soda and how long it is in there. The longer/stronger the more matt the surface will be. It needs to be reasonably etched to take the dye. Just buffing with a soft cloth brings up a nice sheen, then I use a wax furniture polish and buff again..

To fix the dye I bought a rice cooker from Aldi for £12.99. its great, it just simmers away and if the water level gets low it just switches off.