What to look for in a Lee Enfield No4

[strangesam]

I've decided I want my next rifle to be a No4, (i can just about hit a big enough target with an appeture sight, I struggle to hit the backstop with open sights)

What do I need to know as a novice Lee Enfield purchaser to ensure I get a rifle which will shoot straighter than I can, and run reliably?

(also what accessories and parts are essential)

[WelshShooter]

My No4 is smoothbore for the last inch or so and is capable of holding a good group (see below picture at 100m rested with Parker hale ph5c rear aperture sight). I'd say check for pitting of the bore and ensure a good, even crown on the muzzle. Check if any parts have been replaced or if the rifle has gone through a factory repair sometime during its life, usually made clear with stamps on the receiver as "(FTR)". Such a check was performed to ensure the rifle was in a satisfactory condition, and parts were replaced if deemed unacceptable.

The key thing to look for is the number on the bolt head. The Lee Enfield cocks on closing and the bolt lugs are at the rear. Over time, the headspace increases on these rifles and during wartime it was common to remove the bolt head and replace with a larger one to ensure correct headspace was achieved. A new rifle would have a "0" on the bolt head whereas older rifles could have as high as "3". I've included a picture of this belew. Assuming the headspace is correct, this number might give you an indication as to how much its been shot. I bought my rifle with a "1" but needed to replace with a "2" as the headspace was a bit too loose. Around 7 years ago I picked this up for £45 so not sure how much (and how easy to come by) they are now.

I'll leave the experts comment on the rest, but this is my experience of the Lee Enfield so far!

[Deadeye18]

I don't know how to post links but there's a YouTube channel called "bloke on the range" and he did a very good video on this subject.Shouldnt be too hard to find.He did one for the SMLE too.

[strangesam]

Thanks,

I've watched the blokes video on TFB TV (and made notes), I tried searching here but can't seem to get the search function to be helpful.

More advice the better to some extent.

[Deadeye18]

There's a lee Enfield association (LERA) in the uk,it has a website so that might be worth a look.Either way I hope you get a good one.

[GeeRam]

Have a look through some of the threads here on the Lee-Enfield section on Milsurps....should give you a lot of what you need.

https://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=72

[Dark Skies]

Have a look through some of the threads here on the Lee-Enfield section on Milsurps....should give you a lot of what you need.

https://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=72

I'm sure there are plenty of notes on this site by Peter Laidler that will point you in the right direction.

[kennyc]

I don't know how to post links but there's a YouTube channel called "bloke on the range" and he did a very good video on this subject.Shouldnt be too hard to find.He did one for the SMLE too.

fill yer boots here

[Grumpy]

The bolt head indicated size is somewhat irrelevant and many myths revolve around the numbers. If you actually measure them the sizes vary i.e a 1 may actually be bigger than a 3, because manufacturing tolerances varied greatly depending upon who, where and when made. In service we would actually measure the bolt head dimensions and not rely on the assigned numbers. As for wear, it would take an awful lot of use to significantly wear down a bolt head/bolt locking lugs/body locking lugs, how often do you think the average squaddie really fired their weapon? More important is the headspace measurement, you are not going to wear out the action.
Many other more important things to look for.
Just my half penny's worth.

[ovenpaa]

Bolt 'heads' are around a tenner each and as Grumpy says, vary significantly in size. They are also pressure bearing...

In an ideal world you would either tests fire the rifle before purchase and Fultons used to allow this. Alternatively, find a dealer that knows what he is selling and will give an indication of accuracy, such dealers do exist.

Hand loading is a good way of extracting additional accuracy out of a rifle, however it does not make up for a lack of throat or rifling. I personally gauge any rifle I am thinking of buying, both throat and bore and always shoot it, if I cannot shoot it, or it does not come from a known source I will not buy it. Don't get up on external condition either, I own and shoot a ratty P14 that is incredibly capable at 600-800 yards, fair to say it is has the fine vernier rear sight and a Brindles match trigger. It is the most accurate 303 I have ever owned or shot although I have a Lithgow No1 Mk* from1920 that might just be the rifle to beat it.

On the reloading front, I use O rings for new brass:

https://shootingshed.co.uk/wp/2018/01/t ... d-o-rings/

https://shootingshed.co.uk/wp/2018/01/3 ... -bit-more/

https://shootingshed.co.uk/wp/2020/03/3 ... at-gauges/