Anyone reloading .338 LM for Savage 110 FCP?

[Brian838]

Hi, I've just got my hands on a Savage 110 FCP .338 LM but I've never handloaded for this calibre before.
I've purchased the Lee 338 Lapua 2-Die Set (full length sizing die and bullet seating die) and the factory crimp die. I've also got a Redding neck sizing die (the one without the micrometer).
I've seen on some forums that due to 'tight chamber tolerances in the Savage', its best to only use a full length sizing die. I was wondering why this was and have I just wasted money on a neck sizing die? Wouldn't full sizing reduce brass life also?
If anyone who loads for the Savage or .338LM in general could give me some advice I would be very grateful.

Thanks in advance.
Brian.

[WelshShooter]

You can maintain a longer case life if you only resize the minimum amount. You can measure the distance between the case head (where the head stamp is) to a datum point on the case shoulder. Measure this on fired cases, taking an average over 5 or 10 cases to get a better idea of this measurement. If you set up the sizing die per manufacturers instructions, you may reduce this value by a large amount! Some of my cases (read: not .338LM) have been "bumped" back by as much as 0.010". Typically, people would aim to bump the shoulders back by 0.002" to 0.003". This reduces the amount of sizing performed which would then increase your case life. I'm not sure if this figure is still valid for .338LM so might be worth searching for this on the 'net.

In terms of manufacturing of the chambers, the "tight tolerances" means that the chamber was machined to be as close to the drawing dimension as possible. In this instance, you would get minimum case expansion when firing. If you neck size only, the bolt may still be hard to close. My 8mm Mauser brass needs to be full length sized with my loads, if I neck size only I won't be able to close the bolt without using more force than necessary - this is not safe.

[Brian838]

You can maintain a longer case life if you only resize the minimum amount. You can measure the distance between the case head (where the head stamp is) to a datum point on the case shoulder. Measure this on fired cases, taking an average over 5 or 10 cases to get a better idea of this measurement. If you set up the sizing die per manufacturers instructions, you may reduce this value by a large amount! Some of my cases (read: not .338LM) have been "bumped" back by as much as 0.010". Typically, people would aim to bump the shoulders back by 0.002" to 0.003". This reduces the amount of sizing performed which would then increase your case life. I'm not sure if this figure is still valid for .338LM so might be worth searching for this on the 'net.

In terms of manufacturing of the chambers, the "tight tolerances" means that the chamber was machined to be as close to the drawing dimension as possible. In this instance, you would get minimum case expansion when firing. If you neck size only, the bolt may still be hard to close. My 8mm Mauser brass needs to be full length sized with my loads, if I neck size only I won't be able to close the bolt without using more force than necessary - this is not safe.

Thank you for the advice, a few people have said similar things about the brass being difficult to chamber. Looks like I will have to stick to full length sizing. aaarggh

Brian.

[ColinR]

Hi Brian I load 338LM for an AI AWM - connect with me at FDPC and I'll give you whatever help I can.

regards Colin

[Brian838]

Hi Brian I load 338LM for an AI AWM - connect with me at FDPC and I'll give you whatever help I can.

regards Colin

Much appreciated Colin

[sniper3]

Hello Brian,
I myself just started reloading .338LM, unlike you I bought neck sizing dies and found to my horror that the cases I bought were slightly bulged(as they were from military stock and they use semi-auto rifles, these bulge slightly when ejected), thus had to start again and buy F/L dies. I did request info from certain forums and was slagged off, was told I had more money than sense, so I started doing my own digging. I bought "T" stamped cases, 250gn and 300gn Speer bullets, and am using Swiss RS70 & RS80 powder, obviously starting at minimum load and slowly getting there.
One thing I noticed is that once you have fired the rounds from your rifle, the cases will be fire formed to your chamber thus you then only need to necksize the cases from there on.

Ajay
Keep on shooting. .
p.s. if you need cases p.m. me and I'll put you through the right person.

[ColinR]

The 'T' cases you refer to are Ruag. I have a quantity of these as well as some virgin Lapua brass. I always use Vihtavouri powders and for .338LM I find N165 to be the best. This is a single base powder and since these barrels can wear prematurely I tend not to use double base N560 or N570 which are rougher on barrels. My preferred load (for my rifle) is 87 grains of N165 with a 250 grain Lockbase - I was told this is the military loading, but I have used 88.5 grains which tightens up the bolt release a bit. I therefore always full length resize and use Redding Competition shell holders to get the right amount of shoulder bump. I now use an AMP annealer each time I reload as some of the Ruag cases were starting to split at the shoulder neck junction after 5 loadings. I have no doubt that FLS can overwork the brass, but that is not such a problem now that I anneal before resizing.
87 grains of N165 with a 250 Lockbase thru an AI AWM gives 2820 fps. Rather than check case volume with water I weigh cases and batch them which gives an ES around 12fps.

[Scarface]

Hi Brian I got my FCP about 3 months ago great gun for the price !
As for sizing I too have found that neck sizing dose cause problems unles you use Lapua brass (if you can stand the bill for buying 100 at a time) if not RWS is almost as good but I was getting bolt lift issues. I full length sizes every time now and anneal after three firings and have no issues.

Powders, H1000 ! accuracy and mv consistency were really good I have some VV N560 to try also as H1000 availablity seem to be a bit hit and miss.

Bullets , Lapua Scenar 300gn work well with the faster twist rate of the savage tube as do 285gn ELDs

Primers, Fed mag every time

My best load so far is
Lapua brass
Fed primer
300gn scenar
90gn H1000
3.65 coal

This gives me 1.5" on the HME zero proceedre and a quite surprising 2850fps! , back it off a bit and see how you get on !

On a side note if you decide to remove the brake and run a suppressor as I do it's incredibly difficult to get off they use v strong thread locking compound as well as a crush washer

[Brian838]

Hello Brian,
I myself just started reloading .338LM, unlike you I bought neck sizing dies and found to my horror that the cases I bought were slightly bulged(as they were from military stock and they use semi-auto rifles, these bulge slightly when ejected), thus had to start again and buy F/L dies. I did request info from certain forums and was slagged off, was told I had more money than sense, so I started doing my own digging. I bought "T" stamped cases, 250gn and 300gn Speer bullets, and am using Swiss RS70 & RS80 powder, obviously starting at minimum load and slowly getting there.
One thing I noticed is that once you have fired the rounds from your rifle, the cases will be fire formed to your chamber thus you then only need to necksize the cases from there on.

Ajay
Keep on shooting. .
p.s. if you need cases p.m. me and I'll put you through the right person.

Thanks for the offer regarding the cases Ajay, I also had 100 once fired military cases come with the gun and these have the same bulge. The former owner said that he was using a buffing wheel to 'buff out' the bulge. As this would be reducing the case wall thickness, I have decided against this and will be F/L sizing.

Brian.

[Brian838]

The 'T' cases you refer to are Ruag. I have a quantity of these as well as some virgin Lapua brass. I always use Vihtavouri powders and for .338LM I find N165 to be the best. This is a single base powder and since these barrels can wear prematurely I tend not to use double base N560 or N570 which are rougher on barrels. My preferred load (for my rifle) is 87 grains of N165 with a 250 grain Lockbase - I was told this is the military loading, but I have used 88.5 grains which tightens up the bolt release a bit. I therefore always full length resize and use Redding Competition shell holders to get the right amount of shoulder bump. I now use an AMP annealer each time I reload as some of the Ruag cases were starting to split at the shoulder neck junction after 5 loadings. I have no doubt that FLS can overwork the brass, but that is not such a problem now that I anneal before resizing.
87 grains of N165 with a 250 Lockbase thru an AI AWM gives 2820 fps. Rather than check case volume with water I weigh cases and batch them which gives an ES around 12fps.

I've got a tub of N160 and a box of 250 grain Lockbase that came with the rifle, so I will keep in mind what velocity you are getting when I work my way up.
I will have to start saving my pennies for an annealer I think!