Sticky Linseed
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Sticky Linseed
Hi, all.
Now, I'll admit that I'm not an avid stock oiler and I'm not that knowledgeable about wood care other than 'keep it clean.'
If I do oil my stocks I use linseed oil, I believe mine is raw, not boiled. Today I notice that after an application of linseed last week my stocks are a bit sticky, you don't have to peel your hand off of the stock, they're more a bit tacky I would say.
I've not noticed this tackiness before, have I done something wrong?
Do we think the tackiness will bugger off on its own accord, or should I help it along somehow?
Now, I'll admit that I'm not an avid stock oiler and I'm not that knowledgeable about wood care other than 'keep it clean.'
If I do oil my stocks I use linseed oil, I believe mine is raw, not boiled. Today I notice that after an application of linseed last week my stocks are a bit sticky, you don't have to peel your hand off of the stock, they're more a bit tacky I would say.
I've not noticed this tackiness before, have I done something wrong?
Do we think the tackiness will bugger off on its own accord, or should I help it along somehow?
- dromia
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Re: Sticky Linseed
I prefer the ordinary linseed to the boiled.
However I cut mine 50/50 with turpentine (or white spirit, not the substitute).
I would rub down lighly with turpentine and a linen cloth 'till the tackiness disappears, then in future apply thinned as described.
However I cut mine 50/50 with turpentine (or white spirit, not the substitute).
I would rub down lighly with turpentine and a linen cloth 'till the tackiness disappears, then in future apply thinned as described.
Come on Bambi get some
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Re: Sticky Linseed
Hardeners are available but you are probably better to rub off the linseed oil and rework with boiled linseed oil. The boiled oil will mix with the raw and trigger it into curing.
Linseed oil does not really dry, it reacts with the oxygen in the air to harden, polymerise. Boiled linseed has 'stand oil' added which catalysis the reaction curing it faster. I like the Liberon brand.
I was taught to oil the wood:
hourly for a day,
daily for a week,
weekly for a month
monthly for a year
yearly for life
Don't leave a running wet surface it should just 'shine'. The main quality of the finish is in the preperation, sanding, raising the grain, filling and flatting until it is perfect, then oiling for durability.
Linseed oil does not really dry, it reacts with the oxygen in the air to harden, polymerise. Boiled linseed has 'stand oil' added which catalysis the reaction curing it faster. I like the Liberon brand.
I was taught to oil the wood:
hourly for a day,
daily for a week,
weekly for a month
monthly for a year
yearly for life
Don't leave a running wet surface it should just 'shine'. The main quality of the finish is in the preperation, sanding, raising the grain, filling and flatting until it is perfect, then oiling for durability.
Re: Sticky Linseed
dromia wrote:I prefer the ordinary linseed to the boiled.
However I cut mine 50/50 with turpentine (or white spirit, not the substitute).
I would rub down lighly with turpentine and a linen cloth 'till the tackiness disappears, then in future apply thinned as described.
ditto Adam, works very well, 50% white spirit, penetrates into the wood, then the catalyst evaporates and leaves you with a great finish....just rub a finish in with a soft cloth for a superb semi matt finish..
Re: Sticky Linseed
Also make sure you dispose of any rags that you have used with the linseed oils, they can spontaneously combust as the oil oxidises.
Re: Sticky Linseed
Thanks, Adam. Turpentine, now is that the stuff in bottles people are known to rub onto troublesome knees that can be a'gotten from one's local supermarket?dromia wrote:I prefer the ordinary linseed to the boiled.
However I cut mine 50/50 with turpentine (or white spirit, not the substitute).
I would rub down lighly with turpentine and a linen cloth 'till the tackiness disappears, then in future apply thinned as described.
Thank you. Yes, that little tidbit made me double take when I read the back of the linseed tub.ovenpaa wrote:Also make sure you dispose of any rags that you have used with the linseed oils, they can spontaneously combust as the oil oxidises.
- dromia
- Site Admin
- Posts: 20230
- Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 4:57 am
- Home club or Range: The Highlands of Scotland. Cycling Proficiency 1964. Felton & District rifle club. Teesdale Pistol and Rifle club.
- Location: Sutherland and Co Durham
- Contact:
Re: Sticky Linseed
Don't know about supermarkets, never visit the places.
I get mine in half gallon cans from a painting and decorating emporium that supplies the trade.
I get mine in half gallon cans from a painting and decorating emporium that supplies the trade.
Come on Bambi get some
Imperial Good Metric Bad
Analogue Good Digital Bad
Fecking stones
Real farmers don't need subsidies
Cow's farts matter!
For fine firearms and requisites visit
http://www.pukkabundhooks.com/
Re: Sticky Linseed
I know first hand because I rubbed some into a stock using very fine wire wool many years ago and left everything on the side, I went back a few hours to a room smelling of smoke and some wire wool glowing red, I was very fortunate to have found it...Tower75 wrote:Thank you. Yes, that little tidbit made me double take when I read the back of the linseed tub.ovenpaa wrote:Also make sure you dispose of any rags that you have used with the linseed oils, they can spontaneously combust as the oil oxidises.
Re: Sticky Linseed
Ooo... I'm going to have to try some now, if only to see my old t-shirts catch fire.ovenpaa wrote:Also make sure you dispose of any rags that you have used with the linseed oils, they can spontaneously combust as the oil oxidises.
How long do you have to wait?
Would the addition of a sprinkling of black powder help?
Mark
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