Choosing a powder...

[mag41uk]

Pistol calibres I would use either Vectan AS or A1. Cheap and bulky. (a bit like you badger!)
I do use N140 with cast bullets but not for downloaded rounds.
I recently used 35gn N140 with gaschecked 180gn boolits on G range at Sennybridge.
Once I figured out the drop I could get all the targets including the pesky fig12 behind the gate!
I didn't chrono them but would guess around 1950 to 2000fps.
35gn is as low as I would go with this type of powder.
I just checked my notes for 45 acp and was using 3.5gn of AS with 230 and 255 cast.
Average velocity from Taurus LBR was 700fps. May be a bit low for 200 yards !
Tony

[Sim G]

Unique will load everything you list, with cast bullets. It will even load 12ga. But as dromia said, decide the specifics, then check your data...

[meles meles]

Hmmm, from what tree rat and Dromia say, it's looking like Viht brews may be the way to go, with a tub of Unique and Trailboss there for the slow stuff.

[dromia]

Your choice shouldn't be made on what is written here but what is written in data manuals.

Again it is not the make it is the burning rate.

Vihtavuori scores strongly on availability.

[dromia]

Vihtavuori also make powders in the same burning rates as Unique and Trailboss.

Also Trailboss is stupidly expensive, plenty of other options for that burning rate.

[meles meles]

Oh we've read our three manuals until our ikkle brain popped ! They all recommend something different to each other so we came here to seek knowledge and sense... From what we've learned, we like the idea of sticking with just a few brews and getting to know them well, and so Viht seems to offer us a good way forward. It's available, cost effective and would seem to form a good basis to work on as we learn more.

We're interested in Trailboss for sub sonic loads. It's bulky and so reduces the risk of a double charge and / or flash over.

[dromia]

Flash over?

Interested to know why you think this is a problem with powders of Trailboss burning rate?

Case filling powders do help reduce the risk of double charges but that is no substitute for good handloading practice.

If that is what you rely on for checking that the case is properly charged then you shouldn't be handloading, it won't stop an undercharge for example.

Regarding the differences in manuals, if you understand burning rates then they are not so different, it is only the manufactures that are different.

[WelshShooter]

I like Ramshot True Blue in my Marlin 1894C 357 using 158gr boolits. I'm using light loads to meet the velocity requirement at my indoor club. It's like 5gr or so of powder but is enough to make a tight seal and does not soot the case exterior. I also use Bullseye for the same boolit but for 38spl, can't remember the charge weight. Both of these are very nice plinking rounds yet are still accurate for gallery shooting.

The true blue will do hot loads too, I managed to get some Fig11s at 300m at F range if I do my part. It's like a 30ft drop at that range!

[Dougan]

Oh we've read our three manuals until our ikkle brain popped ! They all recommend something different to each other

One thing to be aware of (which took me a while to grasp) is that the load data in manuals is very specific; in that it refers to exact bullet type and weight, barrel length and twist, and seating depth; so does not mean it will be right for your rifle, especially if you experiment with seating depths - Also some loads given assume a modern action, and are not suitable for milsurps...

...a good example of this is the Swedish Mauser - In the Viht manual (which assumed a modern 6.5) the seating depth was too long for both magazine use, and for giving a good neck tension with the bullets I was using - But by seating them deeper (decreasing the OAL) even the starting load was then too strong...Dromia kindly did the maths for me, and confirmed that I could decrease the powder without causing a flash-over risk; and so my load for my Swedish (which shoots to 600) is 2 whole grns below the minimum.

Reloading is an exact science, but there are so many variables, and the verity of loading your looking to undertake increases those variables even further - Trying to load everything at once could become confusing; and isn't practical either as it can take a lot of time just to get one load for one rifle right...If I were you I'd start with one pistol and one rifle load first, add calibers as your confidence builds, and then add other things like cast loading later...

[meles meles]

*Puts down 'Speer no 14', picks up latest Lyman. Applies ice pack to frazzled brain.*