Reloading Setup
Moderator: dromia
Forum rules
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
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HALODIN
Re: Reloading Setup
Interesting... Don't you get better results once the brass is fire formed?
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HALODIN
Re: Reloading Setup
I'll rephrase my question above. Why can't you use dry lube when full length resizing your brass? It's only recommended for neck sizing, but no one seems to explain why.
Re: Reloading Setup
Dry lube is fine for necks however it seems to lack the lubrication properties of something like Imperial Sizing Wax and I would worry about getting stuck cases on a full length sizing process.
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HALODIN
Re: Reloading Setup
Thanks. My brain can't fathom why it would make any difference, but I'm sure that must the answer. It's so tempting to try it, but I won't! 
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Steve E
Re: Reloading Setup
It's quite simple, necks are parallel sided, case bodies are tapered.HALODIN wrote:Thanks. My brain can't fathom why it would make any difference, but I'm sure that must the answer. It's so tempting to try it, but I won't!
A tapered case will always require more 'lube than the straight side of the neck. Go on try using dry lube on the body of a case and try sizing it. I await you posts on how to remove a stuck case.
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HALODIN
Re: Reloading Setup
Yes this must be the answer, but why is this true? Perhaps it's my lack of understanding of what happens when the case is pushed in to the die.
Steve E wrote:A tapered case will always require more 'lube than the straight side of the neck.
Re: Reloading Setup
I also FL every time - I've not detected any improvement in accuracy when only necksizing and regular annealing takes care of any over worked brass problemsjcampbellsmith wrote:I full length resize all brands of brass every time. Regards JCSHALODIN wrote:Quick question for those in the know - I've reloaded a batch of federal .308 brass 5 times, which were full resized by me when I got them and then once fire formed to my rifle, neck sized only. Now they've worked fine until the 6th reload and when I was out last week, a few of them didn't go off (light strike) and then to add insult to metaphorical injury, it took 2 of us to make the rifle safe because of hard extraction. Having run some tests on one of them tonight, the problem wasn't in the neck as I first thought, but a full resize has sorted the problem.
So my question is, how often should you do a full resize on your brass to avoid this and does the frequency depend on the manufacturer of your brass? My Federal brass seems quite soft by comparison to my Lapua brass.
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