"dry" firing

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GazMorris

Re: "dry" firing

#21 Post by GazMorris »

I've actually had a firing pin snap on me while ignoring the advice to use a snapcap, but it was an old pin in a Swing Mk. III which may have come from a batch that got overhardened and caused people all sorts of similar problems. I always use a snapcap these days. out of habit.

Gaz
CDM5
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Re: "dry" firing

#22 Post by CDM5 »

Dougan wrote:The snap cap wouldn't be a solution for me, as I like to keep safety simple...i.e. the rifle is either clear, or not...and wouldn't want to introduce a third category of cleared but with a snap cap still in (as you can't remove the cap without cocking the rifle again)...

...I've just tried with my 10/22, and it is impossible to ease the bolt forward with the trigger pulled in the same way I do with my full-bores when I want to case them with the bolt in - I'm not that worried about the 10/22 as I'm sure Ruger have accounted for this...but I'll heed the advice given with my bolt action rim-fires, especially my 1922 Winchester...

As an aside - It was interesting (for a civvie) to see how the army do it on base...by removing the mag, checking clear, then dry firing it down a safety tube into a sand-bagged hole in the ground...

Pull cocking handle about halfway back until you feel resistance from the hammer. Hold cocking handle firmly and pull trigger, let bolt go forward under control. ;)
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Blackstuff
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Re: "dry" firing

#23 Post by Blackstuff »

CDM5 wrote:
Dougan wrote:The snap cap wouldn't be a solution for me, as I like to keep safety simple...i.e. the rifle is either clear, or not...and wouldn't want to introduce a third category of cleared but with a snap cap still in (as you can't remove the cap without cocking the rifle again)...

...I've just tried with my 10/22, and it is impossible to ease the bolt forward with the trigger pulled in the same way I do with my full-bores when I want to case them with the bolt in - I'm not that worried about the 10/22 as I'm sure Ruger have accounted for this...but I'll heed the advice given with my bolt action rim-fires, especially my 1922 Winchester...

As an aside - It was interesting (for a civvie) to see how the army do it on base...by removing the mag, checking clear, then dry firing it down a safety tube into a sand-bagged hole in the ground...

Pull cocking handle about halfway back until you feel resistance from the hammer. Hold cocking handle firmly and pull trigger, let bolt go forward under control. ;)
:good:

Most modern guns allow you to do this including the GSG-5 and all AR's. (I do this with my Steyr AUG too and my Benelli M2 if i'm feeling generous - the amount of dry firing it gets simply through the unloading procedure for PSG makes being 'careful' with it virtually pointless)
DVC
Dougan

Re: "dry" firing

#24 Post by Dougan »

CDM5 wrote:
Dougan wrote:The snap cap wouldn't be a solution for me, as I like to keep safety simple...i.e. the rifle is either clear, or not...and wouldn't want to introduce a third category of cleared but with a snap cap still in (as you can't remove the cap without cocking the rifle again)...

...I've just tried with my 10/22, and it is impossible to ease the bolt forward with the trigger pulled in the same way I do with my full-bores when I want to case them with the bolt in - I'm not that worried about the 10/22 as I'm sure Ruger have accounted for this...but I'll heed the advice given with my bolt action rim-fires, especially my 1922 Winchester...

As an aside - It was interesting (for a civvie) to see how the army do it on base...by removing the mag, checking clear, then dry firing it down a safety tube into a sand-bagged hole in the ground...

Pull cocking handle about halfway back until you feel resistance from the hammer. Hold cocking handle firmly and pull trigger, let bolt go forward under control. ;)
That's brilliant thanks! - I see you can still do this even after pulling it all the way back if you let it forward and start again :goodjob:
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