Annealed Cases - do I need to quench them?
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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
Annealed Cases - do I need to quench them?
A question if I may; do I have to drop them in water once they’ve been heated. The reason I ask is that I only have a mains powered drill (in which to mount my shell holder) and I’m naturally reluctant to have it in the vicinity of a bucket of water; especially knowing how cack-handed I am.
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Re: Annealed Cases - do I need to quench them?
No because quenching would have a negative effect
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Re: Annealed Cases - do I need to quench them?
The only reason to quench is to save burning your fingers or a container.
JMH is correct
Quenching does not effect the state of the brass as it does with ferrous metals.
With a commercial, turntable type annealing machine the instructions will tell you to put a bucket of water underneathe the chute.
JMH is correct
Quenching does not effect the state of the brass as it does with ferrous metals.
With a commercial, turntable type annealing machine the instructions will tell you to put a bucket of water underneathe the chute.
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Re: Annealed Cases - do I need to quench them?
As has been said quenching does nothing, although some people like to drop them into water to stop the heat moving down the case and annealing to far.
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Re: Annealed Cases - do I need to quench them?
+1John25 wrote:The only reason to quench is to save burning your fingers or a container.
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Re: Annealed Cases - do I need to quench them?
Not with the two that I've had. If you think that dropping them in water is going to halt the heat transfer to prevent softening the brass too far down the case you've already heated it too much and for too long.John25 wrote: With a commercial, turntable type annealing machine the instructions will tell you to put a bucket of water underneathe the chute.
Re: Annealed Cases - do I need to quench them?
John MH wrote:Not with the two that I've had. If you think that dropping them in water is going to halt the heat transfer to prevent softening the brass too far down the case you've already heated it too much and for too long.John25 wrote: With a commercial, turntable type annealing machine the instructions will tell you to put a bucket of water underneathe the chute.
Oh! Mine did, it didn't actually say bucket, it said - container.
And no, I didn't think that.
Anywey, 'twixt us I think we answered his question?


Re: Annealed Cases - do I need to quench them?
Quenching will have the negative effect.
Stand cases in about an 2 inch of water. I remove spent primer first so that water enters and maintains an even heat throughout. Heat neck up to a purple/blue colour...definately not up to red colour and then move on to next on. Leave cases standing to cool. The water acts as a heat sink and stops the heat from damaging the crystaline structure of the base.
I'll usually then bung them into the oven and leave for an hour or so at 120-150oC. This helps to relieve any stresses at the transitional points along the case (where the surface of the water reaches). I have a set of lapua 308 brass which is now on its 12th reload but i do keep the loads mellow (stalking load).
Stand cases in about an 2 inch of water. I remove spent primer first so that water enters and maintains an even heat throughout. Heat neck up to a purple/blue colour...definately not up to red colour and then move on to next on. Leave cases standing to cool. The water acts as a heat sink and stops the heat from damaging the crystaline structure of the base.
I'll usually then bung them into the oven and leave for an hour or so at 120-150oC. This helps to relieve any stresses at the transitional points along the case (where the surface of the water reaches). I have a set of lapua 308 brass which is now on its 12th reload but i do keep the loads mellow (stalking load).
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