This section is for reloading and ammunition only, all loads found in here are used strictly at your own risk, if in doubt ask again.
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should treated as suspect and not used.
Forum rules
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
I enjoyed reading Sim G's thread on the Lee kit as i own quite a bit of the stuff myself, some good, some not so.
I do enjoy useing the Lee Loader on occasion, though obviously not for quantity handloading, and find them surprisingly effective and easy to use. My only dislike is the method of primer insertion (not good :roll: ) and prefer my usual method with the Lee Ram Prime.
I have been using the old style Lee Safety prime which fits on the press instead of a die for years. Its fast sensitive and you can adjust the depth that the primer is seated. I've primed close to 2000 cases for the GB TR Team using this. When I'm in my stride I can prime 500 308 cases an hour. Just whish Lee still made them.
Joe do me a favour the Hornady scale in your picture can you mike the distance between the two counter ballance nuts from the beam to the nuts then from the nuts to the end of the threaded bit.
I think mine is out.
Alpha1 wrote:Joe do me a favour the Hornady scale in your picture can you mike the distance between the two counter ballance nuts from the beam to the nuts then from the nuts to the end of the threaded bit.
I think mine is out.
I think you will find that these need to be individually set for every scale. If you were to change your pan or hanger you would need to re-adjust the trimmer weights.
To reset the trimmers, first adjust the main leveling screw so the scale is level, set all poises to zero and the scale should read zero. If it is a little off then the main leveling screw will take care of it in the normal way - If it is a long way off then you will need to reset the trimmers. With everything set to zero and the pan fitted you will need to loosen the nuts and turn them a little in or out until the scale reads zero. Once set they shouldn't need changing, normal zeroing being carried out with the leveling screw.
