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I'd like to try and improve the consistency of my .308 handloads by switching from my standard Redding FLR die to a bushing die.

I understand that the bush determines the amount of neck grip on the bullet. What should that grip be? I've seen a figure of 0.0015" suggested.

Also, for the purpose of measuring fired cases, what's an easy way of removing the spent primer without resizing the case? Hammer and punch?

Thanks.

I look for 1-2 thou" depending on the calibre and/or load.

If it is condom bullets that you are wanting to use then I cannot comment.

Yes you could use a hammer and punch however a Lee de-capping die is a vastly superior option and it wont break the bank.

Thanks chaps.

What's a condom bullet?

The standard advice is to measure some loaded rounds neck O/Ds and select a bushing 0.002" smaller than the smallest reading obtained (ie the round whose neck has the thinnest walls). (Note, if using different makes of brass, O/Ds and hence bushings can vary between them.) Sometimes though, 0.002" isn't enough, especially with less ductile multiple times fired brass and 0.003" is needed.

The other factor is whether you neck turn or not. The Type S is supplied with an expander ball and this should be used for non-turned (ie variable thickness) cases. The correct bushing is one that just sees the ball 'kiss' the inside neck walls on the thinnest neck case in the box. The reason for expansion is that most brass varies, (both between cases and on different sides of individual cases), even on good stuff like Lapua and expansion accommodates that. The ball can be removed and the Redding supplied decap pin holder substituted so that the bushing alone is in play. This should only be done with turned brass though where every case is the same and the neck thickness on each individual case is very consistent.

A condom bullet is one that has a copper jacket, although it is not a term I use. I prefer to call them FMJ's or similar.

Racalman wrote:I'd like to try and improve the consistency of my .308 handloads by switching from my standard Redding FLR die to a bushing die.

I understand that the bush determines the amount of neck grip on the bullet. What should that grip be? I've seen a figure of 0.0015" suggested.

Also, for the purpose of measuring fired cases, what's an easy way of removing the spent primer without resizing the case? Hammer and punch?

Thanks.

Don't buy a bushing die - a bushing die only works properly with a neck-turned case. If your cases are slightly inconsistent in the neck - and most are - then skimming the neck (neck turning) will make them consistent. Once you've taken a little off the neck, a standard sizing-die probably won't touch the brass - so, you use a bushing die to achieve about two thou. of neck tension. BUT - if you neck-turn your brass it will increase the 'neck to chamber-neck' clearance - which is counter-productive to accuracy.

So, save your money and do what most of us do. Remove (or grind down) the expander-ball from your de-capping spindle in your FL sizing die and buy a neck-expander mandrel and holder - this will be a lot cheaper than a bushing die. (Note: with Forster dies, you can simply screw-off the expander ball).

When you've run your cases through the sizer-die without (expander ball) upsize them with the expander mandrel. This is the best way to obtain correct even neck-tension without neck-turning. Check out this article. http://www.targetshooter.co.uk/?p=2823 and it will tell you where to get expander mandrels.

Removing primers? Lee Universal de-capper is the cheapest and easiest to get - from Hannam's Reloading

OK that's muddied the waters a bit. I was going to ask about the expander ball next ...

I don't intend to turn the necks, mainly because life is too short for any more steps in the reloading process.

I use Lapua cases exclusively and I plan to measure the necks on some loaded rounds to see how much variation there is.

The Gun Pimp wrote:When you've run your cases through the sizer-die without (expander ball) upsize them with the expander mandrel. This is the best way to obtain correct even neck-tension without neck-turning. Check out this article. http://www.targetshooter.co.uk/?p=2823 and it will tell you where to get expander mandrels.

How do I work out what size mandrel I need?

Well, a 308 mandrel - in theory - would give you no neck-tension as it is the same diameter as your bullet but, of course brass is a little springy so the 308 might do. If you want to increase neck-tension go a thou or two smaller. Lightly lube the inside of the necks before you upsize. I mainly shoot 6mm and I have 3 or 4 mandrels.