Glass bedding rifles

[ovenpaa]

Has anyone glass bedded a rifle themselves recently and if so what is good for bedding these days? Did you add pillars at the same time?

[Dave 101]

Hi Dave

This is what yopu need http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/pro ... xies#14079

I have done the pillars as part of the bedding process in the past but I have already decided the next stock I would bed the pillars first , two reasons for this in my mind it will simplify the whole process , and secondly you have a predetermined stable base to work the action too rather than juggling the whole lot at once .

Dave

[ovenpaa]

I have a couple of rifles I would like to bed, so I was thinking of turning some stainless pillars and knurling them for good adhesion and then first stage would be set the pillars in. As you do say, it is a lot less hassle to get that part done first of all so you know the action to bottom metal is set perfectly and screws up without deforming anything, and then add the bedding.

One is a very nice rifle and one is less nice, best I start with the latter

[Scotsgun]

I bed all my rifles. I don't p*** around with Devcon which consistency can vary depending upon how long it's been on the shelf. I gather they don't sell alot of it over here in the UK.

I pillar bed using my own which i turn on the lathe and use an epoxy kit specifically for bedding called Pro-Bed 2000. I get it here:

http://www.scorehi.com/

It comes in either black or brown.

[ovenpaa]

Good link, thanks for that. What size kit do you go for when bedding a normal sized rifle? and do you make the pillars out of stainless or something else and do you contour them to fit the action or leave them flat and allow the bedding material to flood in very slightly around the edges?

[Scotsgun]

I bought the large kit which has done 3 rifles with perhaps a third left, but i'm a messy bugger so you could get more out of the pot if you worked cleaner.

For my pillars i generally use whatever comes to hand first in the scrap bin. My rem700 has silver steel, i think my tikka has stainless and the other just plain mild steel. Can't say i've noticed a difference in any. Perhaps i'd make a mite larger outside dia if using alu.

Generally i cut roughly and mount on the lathe. Face-off end , drill centre dia hole to accomodate mounting screws and then parallel cut to diesired outside dia. Lastly i make a series of ridged cuts along the length of the pillar to create a better bond with the resin and stop any lateral movement (up and down movement) - no particular sizes or accuracy; just move the cutter along every so often.

Then i reverse into an overhead mill (so faced-off end is protected)and using a cutter of similar size to the barrel/breach dia, mill down to final length. I achieved the same once with a 1/2 round file (the mill was being serviced).

It actually takes longer to type then it does to make. You just need length, inside bore dia, outside diameter and approx barrel/breach dia.

[ovenpaa]

The one thing I lack is a Milling machine however that is not the end of the world as a half round file is sure to do an equally good job. It is pretty much as I expected and probably 15 minutes work including finding something suitable to bung in the lathe.

The other good bit was how far it goes as I was not sure which kit to get.

[dromia]

I say isn't this thread a bit off.

I mean we all love shooting and that, but "bedding" your rifles and planning it on an open forum. :shock: :shock:

[Scotsgun]

The other good bit was how far it goes as I was not sure which kit to get.

You really don't use that much. A mate uses one of those araldite, 2-tube packs for his. I'm not suggesting using the stuff - he uses it because he's a tightarse,, but it gives you an idea of how little is required (unless of course you get over keen when removing waste from the stock).

[R.G.C]

The one thing I lack is a Milling machine however that is not the end of the world as a half round file is sure to do an equally good job. It is pretty much as I expected and probably 15 minutes work including finding something suitable to bung in the lathe.

The other good bit was how far it goes as I was not sure which kit to get.

Ovenpaa,

Forget about the radius at top. You cennot be sure it will be perfectly matching when bedding in the stock. It can rotate slightly and you loose any benefit. A lathe-squared face is safer, and the radius will be accomplished by the compound on final bedding.

Grooving for adhesion is easy by cutting a large pitch thaead part-depth on the external.

Ideal would be a countersink on bedding screws holes in the receiver, allowing the pillars to bear perfectly, centers well to free the screws and ensure recoil withsatnd...but very few actions allow that.

In pillar bedding, I would take care on having the pillars correctly spaced in so that the screws are free over all their circumference. Maybe drilling the pillars on same diameter as the screws for good positionning of the pillars for initial glueing, and conterboring them, say 0,5mm directly in the stock when the work is completed to allow play around the screws.

If it is for the Barnard, why not consider the Flexibloc?
http://www.actionclear.com.au/store/ind ... t&catId=21

R.G.C