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Ok, so following on from my "Replacement stocks for CZ452" thread, hopefully my new Tactical laminate stock is on Parmoor's "to do" list, and I'll be getting it in 2-3 weeks.. ideal, as I've got a week off at home around then.

As this is my first attempt at stock finishing, if I put my plans for finishing the stock here can people either give (constructive!) critisism or advice on what I'm attempting.

1 Finish off the sanding down to 240 or 300 grit
2 Stain, either water based or spirit based, (I still can't decide whether red, forest green or honey pine), and apply coats until required shade.
3 Possibly lightly sand again after waterbased stain raises the grain.. not required if using spirit based stain.
4 Start applying Tru Oil.. 50/50 with white spirit for the first 2 coats, then neat, allowing 24 hrs between coats.
5 Every couple of coats lightly rub down with fine wire wool
6 Repeat coats of Tru Oil until required sheen achieved, minimum 5-6 coats

I have seen advice about using Birchwood Casey Sealer and Filler between the staining and Tru Oil'ing... does this add anything..?

Any advice gratefully recieved.

Daryll.

Sounds very similar to the approach I did on my CZ 452, except I did sand off the whiskers, did not stain and used Minwax Antique oil finish instead of tru oil.

Some advice... When sanding the butt of the stock keep the rear plastic butt pad ON or use a sanding block at this point. If not (like I did), you'll end up with a curved edge which is noticeable when you put the butt pad back on.

Before you commit to staining the whole stock, try an inconspicuous place first, like under the rear butt pad or in the barrel channel. This gives you a good idea to the final colour.

Read the instructions on tru oil, I'm not familiar with it but some finishes require you to wipe dry then leave for some time to cure, and some require you to leave it on and cure.

Good luck! I'm going through the same process with an unfinished M1 carbine stock right now :) Make sure you take plenty of pictures and show us some before and after ones!

Thanks Welsh, and good luck on your M1 stock!

From what I've read, diluting Tru Oil 50/50 makes it very quickly absorbed, so theres pretty much nothing to wipe off... by all accounts, the secret is lots of thin layers

I think I've got some scrap bits of birch plywood (basically what the stock will be made of), in the shed, so I'll practice on that first, at least to know how many coats of stain to use.

Sounds good. Steve sticks a guide in with the stocks that tells you pretty much the same :)

I did one not that long ago - the only thing I would say if you’re staining is stop before you reach your desired shade as the subsequent oil/finish are likely to make it darker.

Shellac works very nicely with Birch.These were done with iodine and amber shell flakes dissolved in ethanol.The shellac is very easy to apply and gives a very smooth glossy finish but the gloss can be knocked back using 0000 grade wire wool, which can be used with a paste wax if required.The pic doesn't do the wood justice but will give you an idea.The shellac is also very easy to touch up if you need to as well.

Thanks all, happy to know I was on the right tracks...

Tovarich, I did think about a varnished finish but decided on oiled, but the colour does look good.... I wonder if you can use Iodine with Tru oil..??

That could be the Honey pine type colour if i decide to go that way..