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Hi Guys,

My first GunSafe will be arriving shortly and i would be grateful if you could assist me with tips on fixing it.

It's and Infac SD7, it will be installed in my upstairs spare bedroom on the back wall (external wall) in the corner.

I have read a few articles on fixing and it looks like I have a few options:

1) Chemically fix it to the wall
2) Fix using expanding coach bolts
3) Fix using non expanding 'thunderhead' bolts.

My house is early 1940's built and is fairly solid, I have an SDS drill ready and a socket set so my questions are:

1) what would be the best way to fix it?

2) in terms of fixings / bolts what size would you recommend?

3) in terms of drill bit size what should I use? Also to what depth should I go?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get it right and not make a mess of the wall....

Many Thanks in advance.

Pete



Sent from my boing using "An application"

First would be to position the safe so that the opening side is nearest to the wall, pain getting rifles out but minimises leverage space to the opening side of the door
fixings, use rawl bolts, minimum 4 possibly 6, if using M10 bolts the drill bit required will be either 14mm or 16mm it all depends on the manufacturer but the packet that the bolts come in should have a guide or sometimes there is a dimension on the collar of the bolt which will be the required drill size, M8 will be adequate bolt size as well
drill no deeper than the bolt, plus a few mm, don't forget that the bricks in the wall will only be 4" ish deep before cavity, so don't go using 8" bolts
also use some large repair type washers inside the cabinet to prevent the bolt head been pulled through the bolt hole
maybe put some large screws(12) through into the floor, don't go mad on length in case you hit some services under floor(electric cables, heating pipes etc), that's if there are holes there
just take your time
I wouldn't chemically fix as you will need to move or upgrade at some time so make it easy to remove

Also if you have a skirting board I tend to sit the safe on top of it so there isn't a gap to the wall your bolting too, you can cut the skirting board out of course but a mess if you move the cabinet in future

Duey wrote:Also if you have a skirting board I tend to sit the safe on top of it so there isn't a gap to the wall your bolting too, you can cut the skirting board out of course but a mess if you move the cabinet in future

Id go with the Rawl Bolts as previously described, as for skirting boards I made some wooden plinths to stand the cabinets on so they clear the skirting and can be fixed flush to the wall, saves the hassle and mess of chopping out skirting boards and replacing if you move.

Alan

I've always used rawlbolts (have about 10 cabinets). I've also cut out the skirting boards where required (House is paid for).

I always used rawlbolts until I found these

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fsa-s ... pack/89358

All you need is a 10mm drill so less damage to the wall however be warned, they will not come out afterwards so you will need to cut/grind them off if you ever take the cabinet down.

I also used m10 Rawlbolts, I think you'd pull the wall down before the safe.

A previous FEO put me onto the Fischer kits from Screwfix. Threaded rod sections & a chemical/epoxy bonding agent.
Very easy to use & work great...you can drill the holes for them with the cabinet in situ = makes for easier alignment.

Have also used the industrial sized rawl bolt types in the past.

Given the age of your house, you'll not have issues with either.
I tend to remove the full section of skirting board & store it out of the way for re-fitting if/when required in the future.

Thanks for all the replies, I take a look at the rawlbolts I've found some M10 75mm from screw Fix that should do the job.


Sent from my boing using "An application"

Another bit of advice...I tend to use a socket set with extension bar = gives better leverage when fastening the bolts, compared to a spanner