The UK's Finest Independent Forum for Shooters and Gun Owners. Est 2010.

I am the first to admit I am not very good at filling in plot sheets, in fact mine are decidedly sketchy, attached is an example of a typical distances plot sheet About the only bit of forward thinking is I always write my estimated elevation and windage at the top based on the previous distance I have shot so that is one thing less to try and remember, other than that not a lot of information is written down, I have just picked up some copies of the F Class plot sheets and now things are even worse because I have no idea what to do with half the areas so can anyone help me please, I need some pointers on what to do with all the areas of the sheet.

I see on this sheet I have a cryptic note that says Bump shoulders, this was actually an issue with the chamber fouling and a good clean resolved it. I wish I had made a note to myself to clean the chamber again after 30 shots at 8/9/1000 as my rifle starts to spray slightly when the chamber is fouled.

So some pointers or examples or a nice tutorial would be good please

Morning Davy,

There was a excellent article in the May copy of Target Shooter on plotting, though I read it certainly have not absorbed it yet. Had enough to concentrate on at Phoenix without another bit of paper to look at, but did buy a weathewriter so had better start using it.
Any hints and tips much appreciated.

Regards phil

Dave speak to MIKMak and ask him for a copy of his tutorials if not get back to me

His powerpoint prenentation is one of the best out there

Thanks for the heads up Phil, the TargetShooter is always a source of good information and I really should read it more often.

Just dont over complicate things. From what I can see your plotting sheet looks OK. You have all the main areas covered. Whatever works for you, keep to it. I know too many people who get hung up on these type of things and can actually have a negative effect. I used to just have my data book up to 1000 Yards and adjust accordingly for Wind and note the normal details and my shot placement as you have on your chart. Thats about it. I dont shoot F-Class so unsure of the rules, Do you have to use a specific Plotting sheet?
Pretty good shooting there by the way David :)

James

Well I am now very confused having read the article in TS.

Spud if you can email a copy of Mik's presentation it would be very handy thanks

James, I can use any form of plot sheet I want in F Class, I must admit I struggled a bit with my last (First!) F Class comp but managed to finish 11th at 4/5/600 and 13th at 8/9/1000 so maybe not as bad as I thought. What I want to do is keep a better record of what happened, I have always kept a plot sheet of some form when I am shooting other than for plinking.

I still find the F Class thing very alien having shot with an AI off a bipod for so long.

No offence, but I'm glad I'm not the only one who didn't fully understand the article in Target Shooter :?

As I don't shoot TR as often as i'd like, I tend to record the basics (similar to your card in the photo) so that I know where to set my sights from shoot to shoot. At the momement I'm not happy with my rifle (saving for something much better), and between that and my own ability (and lack of practice) I'm struggling to get 47/48s - so I'm not sure the extra detail on the score card will help much yet. Plus unless you fully understand it and can do it quickly, I think it could be distracting between shots - I find it hard enough to maintain my position between shot as it is - but for an F class shooter I reckon it could be worthwhile.

Once you've got it sussed, and tryed it - I'd be very interested in your comments....did it help? and what are the benefits?

Cheers,

John

Tip 1: Use a pencil. A fairly soft pencil. Pens, hard pencils, and fine propelling-pencils will all give you problems in the rain. My weather writer contains a set of coarse propelling pencils with soft leads, and my firing-point toolbox contains a good quality eraser, plus old-fashioned wooden pencils and sharpener (as in recent 'tools' thread).

Tip 2: Always record absolute sight readings, not incremental (adjustments plus or minus). Immediately you've fired the shot record the wind that was on the gun (no need to write anything if there was no change) - you can then directly relate this to your 'wind call'. Record any elevation changes immediately you make the change (you don't normally need to change elevation while in the aim - possible exception if light changes). This way, the only thing you have to remember through the shot is the wind on the gun.

Tip 3: Plot the fall of shot as accurately as you can, taking any references possible, such as two-thirds across the 4 ring, level with bottom of V, etc. Unless the fall of shot is accurate anything you derive from it can build on the error.

You need to decide the value of plotting the graphs yourself. But to decide, you need to be proficient at plotting them - it needs to take only seconds. Even if you end up only using the wind graph, start practicing with the elevation graph; it's simpler (fewer variables). In TR, the majority of shooters at club/county level and up will plot an elevation graph, but there are less who do the wind graph as well. Often this is because of the time it takes, but if done right it should only take a moment. I've not come across anyone who does Wind and not elevation (sure there may be some though). The dynamics of F class may be different, but ultimately, we all need to align the vertical group as accurately as possible along the waterline to give us the maximum to play with for wind, and to keep it aligned as the shoot progresses. For Wind graphs, opposers argue that they only provide 'irrelevant' historical data. Supporters say they can provide a picture of the range of values encountered to-date, which can help choose values that will be encountered in the near future. The value of both wind and elevation graphs can depend on the situation. If I find that I'm cutting the target in half (i.e. very small elevation spread) I may abandon the elevation graph after four or five shots (I had a perfect example of this on Friday at 1000x, while my other 5 shoots definately needed an elevation graph!). The wind may be either too calm, or too variable, to warrant a wind graph (e.g. a fishtail that is either 1 minute left or 1 minute right). In a TR team match where there is a dedicated wind coach and a dedicated plotter, I expect a decent plotter to save up to one or two points for a target of four shooters at 900x & 1000x, either by recommending elevation changes to the coach, or disputing changes suggested by the coach based on interpretation of the graphs. One or two points will often make the difference between win and lose.

YMMV

..

Thanks for explaining it a bit more Rox, I will complete my last sheets and see how they turn out, I am sure it is an invaluable tool and has to be worth persevering with.

Hi Rox,

Thanks for the tips - I'm already with you on 'tip 1' - I use laminated score cards (with soft pencil and rubber) at the range, and then copy it out neat when I get home.

As for the rest..it's got to be worth a dabble. To be honest there are times when I only record my windage at the start and finnish - so to take more notice of the details each shot, has got to help. There have been times when I have definatly wound myself out of the bull with a bad judgement, or from forgetting where my sights are. I think I'll start though, as you suggest, by sorting how to do the elevation first (while shooting) - and do the windage after (should still add to the learning curve, by highlighting mistakes).

As you obviously have a lot of experience with wind adjustments, a question if I may: On a windy day when the flags are constantly changing in strenth of wind...do you try to pick your shots in the 'lulls' (when timing allows) , or do you take your shot when you're ready, and alter your sights each time?

Cheers,

John