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Right chaps,
The section 1 is pending so time to start planning the reloading gear so as to save myself a bit of cash.
Any info on what I will require and info about certain makes to avoid etc will be most welcome.
I've watched a fair few reloading videos on you tube so have a rough idea already but probably the stuff I've been looking at is above a first starter so hence this post.
If the section 1 comes through unmolested by plod there will be .44 pistol, .308 and .223 rifle to reload.

I like the look of the Dillon progressive presses, but who doesnt
Is a progressive press too much too soon?

Is it better to buy a kit or individual "better" items?

Cheers

Gaz

I think you'd do well to read this

http://www.full-bore.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6544

Yes a progressive is far too much too soon.

My choice would be to buy as individual items as the packages invariably include items that you will feel the need to replace/upgrade reasonably quickly.

My biggest tip would be do not get hung up on makes and just because something is more expensive/cheaper does not mean it is better/worse.

bradaz11 wrote:I think you'd do well to read this

http://www.full-bore.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=6544

Why didnt I see that

Cheers for the link, I'm off for a read

Good advice to avoid a progressive press.

If you want the best of both worlds, consider a Lee Classic turret press.

It can be used as a single stage press or when you have more experience and several calibres to load, it will come into its own as a 4 station indexing turret press, pretty much a halfway house between a single stage and progressive.

The advantage of a turret press is that you can monitor every stage of the reloading process, as only one operation is carried out at a time unlike a progressive, which performs several operations at once, making it more difficult to spot an error in the reloading cycle.

I have been reloading for 45 years and currently load 15 calibres.

My Lee Classic turret press gives me a decent output, up to 200+ pistol calibre rounds/hour with Lee carbide dies and turret mounted Lee auto disk powder measure.

Rifle ammunition takes a bit longer as I check weigh every powder charge in the scale for consistency and use the press as a single stage.

As an absolute minimum, you need a good quality powder scale and accurate powder measure (The Lee perfect powder measure is a good buy for a modest outlay) as well as callipers to measure case length and bullet diameter etc.

I would strongly recommend that the first thing you purchase is a couple of good reloading manuals such as the Lyman 49th Edition and the Lee Modern Reloading 2nd Edition and read them before making any purchases.

ukrifleman.

Re loading presses are a personnel choice. I have used a single station press for all my full lentgh re loading for probably the last twenty years. When I first started I bought Lee gear. The least said about that the better. The new Lee cast presses are OK but a turret press would not be my choice.

It's up to you but what is a must have is a decent powder scale. I recommend a beam scale.

I'm still fairly new to reloading, but another fan of lee classic cast turret, although it is a lot better suited for pistol ammo.

the lee classic cast single stage press is also another fine tool, especially for the price. you will probably end up with both. Most recommend you to start with one of these. Buy the kit form with the perfect powder thrower. take the lee scales and throw them in the bin.

buy RCBS 5-0-5 balance scales. they are a lovely bit of kit with a good reputation.

be prepared to spend a lot of money once you start reloading, you will find certain things work for you, and others that don't. For instance, I found priming on press to be a bit of a faff, it's a step that is easy to forget or do incorrectly, then a pain to get back in rhythm, so I then changed and started reloading off the press. found it to be a lot more straight foward and could concentrate and do a better job. and was one less issue when I get to the press.

the next one will be case cleaning. vibratory tumble, ultrasonic, wet tumble, or wet magnetic?
I started with ultrasonic, then have moved to wet tumbling, with a chinese made machine (something like this http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-Sale ... .42.fwb6wX) which if you do a bit of hunting, you can get for about £100 delivered, just make sure it's the 5kg version - 60w. then you need stainless pins, which can set you back another £60, then a separator and a magnet... so think about £250 all in, just on cleaning.
(or you might be able to find one of these in 240 that comes with pins, and a built in separator - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frankford-Ars ... 3641.l6368)
a vibratory setup will run you about a £100 for a decent one, you still need a separator, and media is about £25, although you can reuse it multiple times, it will reach an end to its usefulness, and need you to rebuy. they also run for longer. my wet tumbler only needs to run for 20 mins to get the brass mirror shiny, so there is a cost in electricity too.

so basically... reloading will cost you about £1000 to set up (including powders, primers, bullets, manuals, press, prep and dies) but you start to see the benefits straight away. 44mag drops from £60 100 to around £15 depending on components. not sure on 308 or 223, but if you are shooting surplus 223, doubt it will be worth reloading if you are only worried about the ££

I run progressive presses for specific jobs however my everyday press is a Lee Cast Classic, no the turret. I remember being rather disappointed as it was all the shop had at the time and I wanted something green which was obviously better. I did get an RCBS in the end however it went and the Cast Classic remains on the bench and is probably used 5 out of 7 days.

Vernier is important as are good scales.

Start with a single stage, turrets have their place, the Lee classic turret is a good press but its priming system is flawed so you loose much of the benefit of the slight volume increase they can give. My go to turret is the Redding T7 not auto indexing but still puts out more ammunition because it is less fiddly and just works the priming system is excellent.

Progressives are a waste of money unless you want real volume for one calibre at a time, you need to be doing a minimum of 500 rounds at a time to make the set up worth while and although they put out a loaded round with each pull of the handle they need feeding and watching so you have to take into consideration the down time. I have two progressives a Hornady and an RCBS set up for 303 and 30-06 and I will use them once a year to knock out a couple of thousand rounds of each calibre which does me for the year. They are not good idea to start with as everything is happening at once.

Most of my reloading is now done with a Decker style hand press and a Wamadet used as an Arbour press with the Lee loader die sets, as simple as you can get. I did 100 rounds of 218 Bee on the Decker and 100 rounds of 30-40 Krag on the Lee Loader/Wamadet last night.

The Lee Classic Cast is a good value for money single station press to start with.

A good handloading manual is a must I recommend the Lyman and will not sell the Lee to anyone.

Good beam balance scales are also essential along with a set of check weights, after that most things around will suffice.

Best is to get someone who is experienced and set up to show you how to go on, handling equipment is the best way of getting the experience that will allow you to make meaningful decisions for yourself.

Handloading is never about speed it should always be done slowly, methodically and with great care. Automation can give increased volume not more speed and the vast majority of us don't need that.

Thanks for the advice so far chaps, some interesting recommendations

One thing that has puzzled me is the accuracy of beam scales with such small weights of powder but it seems they are
I would have thought in this day and age digital scales would have been a better option but it seems people are still going for the beam type.

Keep the info coming fellas because I keep re-reading it all and I'm taking it all in

I have made the mistake throughout my life of buying the cheaper end of the hobby markets items and always ended up rebuying most stuff so as this hobby is the most expensive I have ever undertaken I intend to do it right first time (or near enough anyway)