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We were at the range yesterday afternoon, I had two rifles to test fire to confirm feed and function and one to put on zero and once the testing was completed all that was left was to put the Marlin on zero. I have recently changed the sights on the rifle I use for competitions having been working on a combination of rear sights and cheek weld and had ended up with a great position and a rifle that shot 8" high so time to zero ready for the next competition.

I shoot 158 grain cast bullets at around 1050 fps and I know it is an accurate load, the ghost ring type rear sight works well so what about the front sight? My latest version is a ramp with a screw in front post which can be adjusted for height with a slotted flat bladed screwdriver and the pin itself is made from brass painted with Dayglo orange paint so the idea is shoot a couple then file the post to close length and fine tune with the screwdriver.

Just as I was about to commence a couple of shooters arrived with a 'scoped .308 to set on zero and it was interesting to compare our different zero methods, they were shoot one, adjust a couple of clicks, shoot one and repeat. Mine was shoot a group, file the sight post down and check, a slight tweak, check, job done and shoot another 50 to confirm everything was where I wanted it to be in various shooting positions.

Yes they are probably going to be shooting out to 3-400m and I will not go beyond 100m with this rifle however the lack of finesse required for these under levers did make me smile.

I will touch the paint up on the post when I get a moment.

I find an angle grinder, 8lb mash hammer and cold chisel at the firing point speeds up sight adjustment.

Telescopic sights are easier to adjust as they just need a mash hammer.

Good tools can make or break a job.

Rofl. Oh you are funny. :)

I am a big fan of Gaffer tape and I think the creases add a very personal touch

if you just shoot one and adjust, you'll probably end up chasing the shot. I was alsway taught to do as you say, shoot multiple shots to establish the group (and if you don't have a group after 5, get up, adjust and get down again) then adjust, shoot 3 and see where you are.

Gaffer tape!

You poof!

Spotwelding is the only way to go with metal and 6" nails for any woodwork adjusting/pillar bedding.

I was taught to wait for a busy day at the range, position myself in the centre of the ranges bays and just keep emptying magazines as fast as possible.

Then turn the dial in the opposite direction to the shooter who's yelling "oy! That's my target"

Team work like that just makes things complicated.

KISS.

ovenpaa wrote: Just as I was about to commence a couple of shooters arrived with a 'scoped .308 to set on zero and it was interesting to compare our different zero methods, they were shoot one, adjust a couple of clicks, shoot one and repeat. Mine was shoot a group, file the sight post down and check, a slight tweak, check, job done and shoot another 50 to confirm everything was where I wanted it to be in various shooting positions.

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This seems to be quite a usual way of sighing in a new scope/rifle - I'm often amazed at the amount of ammunition that's thrown down range "sighting in" without any system. Even experienced guys who have been shooting years often use the shoot and click method, slowly walking the shots in by trial and error..

If you're confident that the load and the rifle is accurate, you've bore sighted and plonked one on the target at 100yds, say 12" low and 8" left, it doesn't take much working out, if you've go 1/4 moa clicks, you'll need 48 up and 32 right.

Even if you haven't a clue of how your scopes calibrated or even the range to the target you can use the "one shot" method.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwD5zu7yTeI

Waste of time, everyone knows hitting the bull is down to luck.