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After a fairly interesting day clanging gongs at silly distance, I have come to several conclusions,
1, I need a 45moa rail.
2, I need 'more gun'

Here's what I have so far,
Sako TRG 22, Third eye 20 MOA rail and a Sightron 8-32x56 SII LRMOA2 scope.

When I got the TRG it had the factory (zero cant rail) and ran out of elevation at 930yds, so I got the 20 MOA rail. With the zero cant rail, the scope was 10.5moa above optical center, and with the 20 rail, I still have 24moa 'wasted' elevation.
So, if I get a 45 MOA rail, in theory, I should be 'bottomed out' at a 150yd zero, and I normally zero at 200, so should have a click or two spare.
Now, will there be any problems in running the scope 'bottomed out' when not shooting long range, or am I asking for trouble ?

Or, should I just sell it and get a 338?

Depends on how far you want to reach really. What is your current barrel length (i am assuming that its a. 308 trg). . 338 puts you into HME territory but with a 30 inch barrel there are plenty of calibres which will out perform .308 in a standard 26 inch trg.

Swap the Sightron for the 8-24x56 - this will give you 30 more MOA of elevation!

Alternatively there are the Third eye tactical rings with extra MOA built in (10,20,30 + possibly 40?)

Or if you want another 100MOA of elevation on top of what you have then look at the Ivy mounts (Google them) - great bit of kit, but expensive.

Mike

I am thinking of selling on the sightron, not too sure on the value, but I'm sure it'll be a fair chunk towards an IOR I know of for sale.
The TRG is getting rebarrelled as a .260 soon with a 28" tube, or maybe longer depending on available blanks.
If I can push it to 1300 as the 6.5, that'll do, any further is just plinking anyway.
It's a 26" .308 at the moment.

Pete

Short term could you use a shim to bring you closer to mechanical zero at say 100/100m. 24.5 minutes is going to be around 0,85mm dependant on ring separation.

Another short term fix could be to use the Burris rings with the off-set inserts - These will give you another 20moa.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/sigrings.html

Sounds like a fair plan ovenpaa, would I be best off shimming/bedding the rail ? It's 165mm long, so how much would I need to shim the rear for an extra 20moa ?

Cheers

1066 wrote:Another short term fix could be to use the Burris rings with the off-set inserts - These will give you another 20moa.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/sigrings.html

I've thought of that, it means selling a gun though to allow the TRG to fit in the safe with a scope fitted, at the moment I use QD mounts and take the scope off.
Anybody want a Sako M591 varmint ? Lol

Bdiac wrote:

1066 wrote:Another short term fix could be to use the Burris rings with the off-set inserts - These will give you another 20moa.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/sigrings.html

I've thought of that, it means selling a gun though to allow the TRG to fit in the safe with a scope fitted, at the moment I use QD mounts and take the scope off.
Anybody want a Sako M591 varmint ? Lol

Calibre? Lol.

Seriously though. For shimming the rail, what is the distance between bolts/fixings on the rail?

ovenpaa wrote:Short term could you use a shim to bring you closer to mechanical zero at say 100/100m. 24.5 minutes is going to be around 0,85mm dependant on ring separation.

Yes I did that on a 3x12 Swarovski scope I used a piece of photo negative. worked a treat.

Jenks