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Can someone recommend either a commercial cartridge or a reload of the above calibres for target at 100 yards from a Marlin under lever

Buy a decent reloading manual(like the Speer one) and you will get lots of loads for .357 rifle/carbine with different bullet weights.

...even better, get a few different manuals...cheap enough second hand

.357 case, GM 180gr LTC bullet, Fed 100 primer, 6.3gr 3N37. COL 1.585".

10 shots in 25mm, edge-to-edge, 50m, rested, Marlin 1894 microgroove.

Chrono'd @1127 feet per sec
Std.Dev. 12.7, Coefficient of Variation 0.9%, Mean Av. Deviation 10.5, Extreme Spread 38.

Should be OK for 100m, at least to get you started.

The Vihtavuori reloading guide (edition 14, 2014) gives loads for 180gr jacketed bullets which start with a charge of 3N37 higher than this, but do not give a load for lead bullets. So start lower than my recommendation (say 5.0gr) and work up slowly, ensuring that each load displays no pressure signs in your rifle, with your own reloads. If you don't know what to look for, READ SOME RELOADING MANUALS FIRST, and TAKE ADVICE from other reloaders you trust.

David.

How accurate is a .357 under lever at 100yads I have never fired mine over 50 yards and normally at 25 yards.

I seem to remember the best shooters were getting ragged hole (or at least touching) groups at 100yds last time our club went to Bisley with the club Marlins and Winchesters. I have only shot mine on the club range, which is much shorter, to achieve similar. Accurate in the right hands with the right loads, by the look of things.

Regards

Mark

That depends how large your ragged hole is Mark. The best that I have done with a Marlin at 100 yards was about 1 1/2" - 2"

If the Marlin is chambered for both, then I would recommend using .375.

One reason is that if .38s are used regularly, it leaves a mark on the inside of the chamber which can cause problems chambering .357, and needs to be cleaned out...if the rifle has had thousands of factory .38s down it then the mark can be difficult to remove.

The other reason is that it gives you more flexibility - When you look at the manuals, you'll see that there are full magnum loads and 'cowboy action' loads...the cowboy action loads use a small amount of faster powder (so ok with quite a large air space in the cartridge), for a velocity of around 700/800 fps; which are great for shooting hundreds of rounds at shorter (10 - 50m) distances without needing to clean the barrel.

If I was looking to shoot slow fire precision with a Marlin at 100 - 200m then I'd try full magnum loads with jacketed bullets (so need a .357 case with a larger volume of a slower powder) - Factory (Magtec) magnums with lead bullets show 1080 fps, but if you want to get up to 1400 fps or so, then you'll need jacketed bullets...the downside being that you'll need to clean the barrel more often, but it could be worth it for the accuracy...

Dougan wrote:If the Marlin is chambered for both, then I would recommend using .375.

One reason is that if .38s are used regularly, it leaves a mark on the inside of the chamber which can cause problems chambering .357, and needs to be cleaned out...if the rifle has had thousands of factory .38s down it then the mark can be difficult to remove.

The other reason is that it gives you more flexibility - When you look at the manuals, you'll see that there are full magnum loads and 'cowboy action' loads...the cowboy action loads use a small amount of faster powder (so ok with quite a large air space in the cartridge), for a velocity of around 700/800 fps; which are great for shooting hundreds of rounds at shorter (10 - 50m) distances without needing to clean the barrel.

If I was looking to shoot slow fire precision with a Marlin at 100 - 200m then I'd try full magnum loads with jacketed bullets (so need a .357 case with a larger volume of a slower powder) - Factory (Magtec) magnums with lead bullets show 1080 fps, but if you want to get up to 1400 fps or so, then you'll need jacketed bullets...the downside being that you'll need to clean the barrel more often, but it could be worth it for the accuracy...

Strange you should say that as I only shoot 38Spl in mine and after 1000's of rounds there is no mark in the chamber of my Marlin.

Hi Rog,

I bought a Winchester (now switched for a Marlin) that had had only 38s down it...there was a raised carbon ring in the chamber that prevented chambering .357, and was a bugger to fully remove...

...out of interest, can you feel any resistance when you chamber a .357 in yours?