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New to this reloading game so would appreciate some advice. Got myself a bunch of once shot Privi brass (its me that shot it). I only have one .303 rifle and after acquiring a press I am looking to get some RCBS dies to go with it.

Now this is probably a completely nubie question but what would you recommend in terms of FL size or Neck size only dies?

Its my understanding that by Neck sizing only, the brass could last longer as its stressed less and will more snugly fit the rifle that initially fired it?. By FL sizing the round, it will chamber more easily (and fit other .303 rifles) but the brass is 'worked' more and will last less reloads? The FL method also requires the full case to be lubed?

Firstly is the above correct and secondly what do you guys recommend?

Mike

I'm no expert but from what I have read (I will be looking to go this route with .303 eventually) then you are correct in saying that FL sizing will stress the brass more if your chamber is on the larger side of specification as it will effectively fire-form the case every shot, which you then reform to book specification when you FL size, work hardening the brass around the shoulder much quicker than it would in a rifle with a tighter chamber. However, a NS only case may not chamber correctly in another rifle with a tighter chamber than your current one. The easy way to prevent case failure is to anneal prior to reloading, however, that is something I am even less of an expert in, regarding process, when to do it (pre or post FL sizing etc).

As some one who shoots a lot of .303, my advice is:
If you have only the one rifle, neck size only but be aware that after 5 or 6 loadings you may have to full length size. My preference is for the RCBS neck sizing die (and full length die). You will have to lube the case neck with this die. For this I use Imperial Dry Neck Media. It comes in a plastic tub about the size of a 35mm film case. All you need to do is dip the neck of the case in the lube and then size and wipe clean. As it uses a graphite based dry media there is no powder contamination.

If you have more than one rifle, keep the cases separate and allocated to particular rifles. It is very rare that cases fired and neck sized in one rifle will fit another.
.303 chambers are notorious for often being overlong so that the case shoulders jump forward on firing. Full length sizing will push these back but will work the case more and you will need to trim more frequently than if neck sizing only.

With careful sizing and sensible loads I can get over 20 reloads out of .303 cases. (My preference is for the Greek HXP or Winchester)

Steve E wrote:As some one who shoots a lot of .303, my advice is:
If you have only the one rifle, neck size only but be aware that after 5 or 6 loadings you may have to full length size. My preference is for the RCBS neck sizing die (and full length die). You will have to lube the case neck with this die. For this I use Imperial Dry Neck Media. It comes in a plastic tub about the size of a 35mm film case. All you need to do is dip the neck of the case in the lube and then size and wipe clean. As it uses a graphite based dry media there is no powder contamination.

If you have more than one rifle, keep the cases separate and allocated to particular rifles. It is very rare that cases fired and neck sized in one rifle will fit another.
.303 chambers are notorious for often being overlong so that the case shoulders jump forward on firing. Full length sizing will push these back but will work the case more and you will need to trim more frequently than if neck sizing only.

With careful sizing and sensible loads I can get over 20 reloads out of .303 cases. (My preference is for the Greek HXP or Winchester)

:goodjob:

Batch once fired cases to each rifle shot in, neck resize, I prefer and recommend the Lee collet die for this. I trim, anneal and bump the shoulder back with a Redding body die when the rounds start feeling a bit tight to chamber, about every five or six loadings.

I shoot a lot of .303" for a multiplicity of rifles, it has to be my favourite cartridge. Loaded 500 FL sized rounds last week on one of my progressives, used a spray lube on the cases in a box and shook them about a bit, had a field firing day yesterday so needed lots of ammunition.

When FL sizing smaller batches I load individually and use Hornady Unique case lube, at least every bit as good as Imperial at a lot less cost.

I have several .303 rifles so I tend to full length size my rounds I have settled on a load consisting of=
174grain bullet with 41grains of Vitavouri N140 this seems to work OK in all my .303,s.
Occasionally I experiment and neck size for this I use a Redding neck die or a Lee collet die I dip the case neck in graphite powder (because I have access to tubs of the stuff)
I am keen to try some of the Hornady unique case lube when I can get my hands on some.

If you are just starting out it might be worth your while purchasing a set of Lee collet dies. The kit comes with a neck die a seater a full length die and I think it also includes the shell holder. Check Adams (Dromia) web site I think he sells them.

Other than that just follow the advise posted by Steve E and you should be fine.

Plus one for the Lee collet dies.
I have several and they are foolproof.
It makes reloading 303 as easy as my 44mag.
Tony

+1 for Lee dies, I load for 2, .303 rifles and keep the brass separate for each. Good advice so far, neck sizing extends case life and saves having to lube the brass!
ukrifleman.

Thanks guys for the info.

On the subject of bullet heads for range use (general target shooting and plinking). I was thinking of the .303 PPU Privi BT FMJ 174g head. £17 odd quid per 100 from Kranks.

Any good? Presumably these are the same as fitted to the original Privi original round. What do you guys use?

Also, what range of powders do you recommend with the above?

Sorry for so many questions...

Mike

The only bullets that I use are the Sierra 174gr boat tail( which is .311") as I have found them to be the most consistent but they do require a tight bore. The bore of your barrel may well dictate which bullets will work the best and what size groups you will get.
Many powders are useable as long as they are not too fast. The likes of IMR 4895, Varget, N140 and H414 have a following but all are dependant on which bullet you use, the case and more importantly what your barrel dimensions (groove and bore) are. The newer powder TR140 works really well and is also one of the cheapest powders available. It is my powder of choice.
The same goes for the bullet. If your bore is on the loose side a boat tail bullet may not work as well as a flat base bullet. Modern reproductions of the MKV11 ball bullet are available from Bez's bullets but at £40 per 100 they are taking the p**s.
Hornady make a 174 gr Boat tail that are larger than the Sierra at .312" (they also cost more). Both Sierra and Hornady make .312 flat base bullets but they can be hard to find in the UK.

You keep asking the questions and we'll post some answers