Wind at 100yards

[ovenpaa]

when you stop and think, thats obvious, but I would have never thought of it...

Ofcourse the projectile will try and find the path of least resistance, and that'd be pointy end into the wind and facing the way its going...

how would that effect the 1000x?

Also, if it turns too much into the wind, is that when projectiles can start to tumble.... i cant help but think the spin helps cause this...

another thing someone told me, and i don't know how true it is is that the bullets go round like this (see attachment)....

I'd imagine its possible due to the spin, but surely it wouldnt be accurate if it did this? obviously I've exagerated it in this picture as it might not be noticable at 100 yards, but over 1000 yards, would a bullet spiral like this?

Here we go! Bryan Litz on Pitch, yaw and bullet path.

[Mike357]

:cool2: :cool2: :cool2:

SORE HEAD - STOP IT WITH ALL YOUR GEEK TALK

[Dougan]

Yeah, the front sight is something I'm yet to master... I realise its 5 mins per notch, but i'm still trying to get y head around the elevation at different distances to begin with...

I think once i have them all down I'lkl be able to set them via the front sight for the major jumps,a nd tweak with the rear sight, and hopefully have my cheekpiece set in almost the same position throughout the different ranges...

Don't worry it's simple - and you already know the theory of why it's good to adjust the front sight....It might be worth doing sooner than later, as you are comming close to finding your zero for your ammo.

I have my zero set at 300, as it's the minimum distance I shoot my TR at - you may want to set yours at 200...? You will need to go back to 100 (for range safty) to get your approximate zero, and then move to 200/300 to get it spot on - this is one way of setting your front and rear sights:

Assuming you want too shoot at 1000 at some point in the future, you will need to leave enough adjustment on the front sight for this - Bring the front sight down as low as it will go without touching the barrel - The elevation adjustment for 200 to 1000 is 36.5 minutes (RG ammo) - so now bring you front sight back up by 35 mins (7 notches)...this is where your front sight will be for shooting at 200 (yet still leaving room to adjust for up to 1000) - then, in your normal shooting position, ajdust your rear sight until you are zeroed (preferably on a windless day).

To then set the zero on your rear sight: without moving the sights from where you were shooting at 200 - move the elevation and windage plates that you read the numbers off, so that they read '0'.

You're sights will then be zeroed for 200 yrds, and in theory you will be able (using the chart) to make the larger adjustments on your front sight for each distance, but only ever have to adjust your rear sight by 2.5 mins either way - enabling you to keep your head position consistant at all distances.

[Dougan]

That video of the bullet path is excellent (sorry Mike :) )

I was shooting next to someone on Saturday who has a very nice .308 and scope (should have got the details...sorry) - he Is a very good with it, and it's not uncommon for him to shoot the pin out of the spotting disk at 200 yrds - however when we moved back to 300, his shots, after the correct elevation adjustment (windless day) were going left ....we were discussing whether the spiralling bullet path could be the reason for it....?

[rox]

That video of the bullet path is excellent (sorry Mike :) )

I was shooting next to someone on Saturday who has a very nice .308 and scope (should have got the details...sorry) - he Is a very good with it, and it's not uncommon for him to shoot the pin out of the spotting disk at 200 yrds - however when we moved back to 300, his shots, after the correct elevation adjustment (windless day) were going left ....we were discussing whether the spiralling bullet path could be the reason for it....?

There are a number of factors that could be causing this. How far left were the shots at 300x?

Are the sights aligned perfectly vertically on the rifle, and was the rifle held perfectly 'cantlessly' (i.e. perfectly horizontal)?

Assuming you can eliminate cant as a potential problem (i.e. the rifle/sights have a spirit level) you can test this on zero range. With a zero target carefully mounted using a plumb line walk the shots up from the aiming mark to the 1000 yards mark and beyond. If the centre-line made by the shots deviates in angle from the vertical line on the zero target there could be a sight alignment problem.

Also, was there really no wind whatsoever down the entire length of the range? This is pretty rare. You would ideally need to see the mirage from 100 down to the target at 300 in order to be fairly sure of this.

There are a whole range of physical factors that can affect the flight of the bullet (you can find basic information about many of them here), but the effect of most of them on drift is pretty negligible in practice (apart from wind, of course). I expect my wind zero to remain within +/- a quarter of a minute at all distances from 300 to 1000 yards, and the sights are not set up to compensate for any particular factor (they are simply set as close to vertical as possible).

[Dangermouse]

I was reminded of this conversation last week when I was testing 4 different bullet weights made by 2 different manufacturers with different loads.
Although I was keeping the same point of aim the different bullet weights / loads etc were all having their own point of impact, and of course I am not just referring to different elevations. Some landed to the left others to the right etc.

DM

[ovenpaa]

I have noticed that some loads will move the POI to the right by as much as they move them up when doing load development.

[rox]

I have noticed that some loads will move the POI to the right by as much as they move them up when doing load development.

Are you far enough away that the bullet has stabilised?

[Dougan]

I have noticed that some loads will move the POI to the right by as much as they move them up when doing load development.

Are you far enough away that the bullet has stabilised?

Or are you so far away that the bullet has stabilised, and then started to destabilised again? :-P (Mikes going to love that :P ) ..... my .308 shoots well at 1000, ok at 300, but is spot on at 600 yrds.......

I think 'cant' is more of a problem for us TR shooters with apertures (my next front sight will have a level on it), but for the 'scoped' boys, I think it's fairy simple to use the cross hairs.

If your looking for total accuracy then all the things mentioned on this thread are worth considering - thanks for the 'wiki link'...I'll have a read of it later :)

[Dangermouse]

The scope boys can suffer from cant just as bad at the TR lads. One of the easy mistakes when looking through a scope is to use the targets or butts in the background as your level. Anyone who has attached a level to their set up quickly realises that this is not the case, certainly not at Bisley.
One of the frustrating situations that this creates is that your elevation and windage adjustments stop making sense and you start questioning your own ability to turn the turrets in the correct direction.
Good article on it here:http://www.accurateshooter.com/optics/c ... of-impact/

We are of course assuming that the scope is on correctly in the first place!

DM