Help me fix my .303s

Pre 1945 action rifles. Muzzle loading.

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bradaz11
Full-Bore UK Supporter
Posts: 4788
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Home club or Range: The tunnel at Charmouth, BWSS
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Re: Help me fix my .303s

#31 Post by bradaz11 »

Steve E wrote:Step 1 is to buy set of foresight blades. You should be able to get a complete set of No1 blades for about £10 from Terry Abrahams.
Step 2 set sights to 200 yds and shoot at 200 yds. Swop foresight blades until MPI (mean point of impact) is 6 inches above MPA (mean point of aim).
Windage can be adjusted for by using Armourers Drift No1 ( small brass punch) and drift foresight towards the error. Or use the correct foresight cramp, (Armourers used the punch and hammer method as it was quicker). If the foresight needs moving more than 0.050" then you have an issue with the fit of the forend and you need to find someone with the correct skills to rectify this.
how do you contact terry?
When guns are outlawed, only Outlaws will have guns
Steve E

Re: Help me fix my .303s

#32 Post by Steve E »

bradaz11 wrote:
Steve E wrote:Step 1 is to buy set of foresight blades. You should be able to get a complete set of No1 blades for about £10 from Terry Abrahams.
Step 2 set sights to 200 yds and shoot at 200 yds. Swop foresight blades until MPI (mean point of impact) is 6 inches above MPA (mean point of aim).
Windage can be adjusted for by using Armourers Drift No1 ( small brass punch) and drift foresight towards the error. Or use the correct foresight cramp, (Armourers used the punch and hammer method as it was quicker). If the foresight needs moving more than 0.050" then you have an issue with the fit of the forend and you need to find someone with the correct skills to rectify this.
how do you contact terry?
Google is very efficient, failing that http://www.gundealer.net/eastanglia/essex/
User avatar
bradaz11
Full-Bore UK Supporter
Posts: 4788
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:23 am
Home club or Range: The tunnel at Charmouth, BWSS
Location: Bristol
Contact:

Re: Help me fix my .303s

#33 Post by bradaz11 »

Steve E wrote:
bradaz11 wrote:
Steve E wrote:Step 1 is to buy set of foresight blades. You should be able to get a complete set of No1 blades for about £10 from Terry Abrahams.
Step 2 set sights to 200 yds and shoot at 200 yds. Swop foresight blades until MPI (mean point of impact) is 6 inches above MPA (mean point of aim).
Windage can be adjusted for by using Armourers Drift No1 ( small brass punch) and drift foresight towards the error. Or use the correct foresight cramp, (Armourers used the punch and hammer method as it was quicker). If the foresight needs moving more than 0.050" then you have an issue with the fit of the forend and you need to find someone with the correct skills to rectify this.
how do you contact terry?
Google is very efficient, failing that http://www.gundealer.net/eastanglia/essex/
thank you for that cheers

but also, google isn't much help when all you know is 'terry abrahams'
When guns are outlawed, only Outlaws will have guns
Joe Pugh
Posts: 206
Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 11:43 am
Home club or Range: Merthyr Clay shooting, Work at South Wales 2000 Clay ground
Location: South Wales
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Re: Help me fix my .303s

#34 Post by Joe Pugh »

Full set of blades hear if you wish. £45 for the lot or £5 each

http://www.valmontfirearms.co.uk/Leeenfield.html

About 8 columns down.
Miroku MK38 12G
Browning Maxus 12G
Ruger 10/22 .22
Marlin 1894 .44
Savage model 24 .22/.410
Lee Enfield SMLE 1918 .303
Mauser Gew 98 1916 7.92x57
Springfield 1903 1928 30-06
Mosin Nagant 91/30 1929 7.62x54R
Lost count now
Tower75

Re: Help me fix my .303s

#35 Post by Tower75 »

Thanks for the info, guys. Thanks for the pics, Gaz.

Right, so turns out after years of assuming it was a pin holding the foresight in, turns out it's a punch mark. I assume to align the blade with the block.

Image

Anyway, if I am to replace my blades, may I ask how? It's not like changing batteries, and can this be done at the range? If not there's gonna be a long time between blade changing and rezero'ing. I assume there's a magical, armourer's method to use? I don't really fancy just whacking the sights with something heavy.
Gaz

Re: Help me fix my .303s

#36 Post by Gaz »

A quick google shows there was a foresight cramp to adjust the sights under service conditions, so in the absence of that I think you may be reduced to a lump hammer and a bit of wood...
Steve E

Re: Help me fix my .303s

#37 Post by Steve E »

Tower75
Place the sight block on a block of wood and using a brass drift and a hammer and just knock the foresight blade out. File the punch mark burrs flat and put a lower height foresight in. You will need to gently tap the new blade in.
A well known gunshop at Bisley sells blades for £2 each and will fit them for free if you feel that you are unable to do this task.
Bring the rifle to Bisley and I'll zero it for you and give you the correct height blade free of charge (you pay for the target hire).
Steve E

Re: Help me fix my .303s

#38 Post by Steve E »

Joe Pugh wrote:Full set of blades hear if you wish. £45 for the lot or £5 each

http://www.valmontfirearms.co.uk/Leeenfield.html

About 8 columns down.
And that is a complete rip off for the gullible. Individual blades should cost no more than £2 each. That is £14 for the complete set.
A well know gunshop at Bisley sells them at £2 each.
Tower75

Re: Help me fix my .303s

#39 Post by Tower75 »

Many thanks for the advice, Steve. Thank you for the kind offer, i'm down my local range soon, I should really try and zero these rifles at 100 yards/metres before I do anything.
Dougan

Re: Help me fix my .303s

#40 Post by Dougan »

Steve E wrote:Place the sight block on a block of wood and using a brass drift and a hammer and just knock the foresight blade out. File the punch mark burrs flat and put a lower height foresight in. You will need to gently tap the new blade in.
A well known gunshop at Bisley sells blades for £2 each and will fit them for free if you feel that you are unable to do this task
Either of those would be a simple solution.

Couple of things: If you buy just one sight, make sure its not too low (again, if you go to 'a well known shop at Bisley' they can advise you) other wise you'll have the opposite problem (which is one of the reasons I got a sight that was just a bit lower for my M96 and filed the rest) - The other thing; is that what Steve is saying about using a drift and hammer for zeroing the windage isn't as hard as it sounds...takes a bit of trial and error but is easily doable at the range...also one of those small hammers with the rubber/nylon ends makes the task easier and also gentler on the rifle.
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