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Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 8:41 pm
by Sandgroper
Mike357 wrote:Sea Wolf is just about to start casting and has managed to get very cheap lead from Ebay of all places and the postage was very cheap.
Yes, I saw that when doing a general search for lead.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LEAD-DIVING-WEIGH ... d7fc382e1d

or

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/10kg-Diving-Lead- ... 4155900351

but before then I have more sorting to do and two Garages to check out!

Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 11:39 am
by R.G.C
dromia wrote:BTW the Al and Zamak, zinc aluminium alloy, will also float off. They also have higher melting points than lead.
Z.A.M.A.K = Zinc, Aluminium, Magensium, Antinom, Copper (K for Kupfer in german).

R.G.C

Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 11:47 am
by dromia
Thanks for the specifics.

They are still no good for lead alloy cast boolits and still float off as per the post.

Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 1:52 pm
by R.G.C
dromia wrote:Thanks for the specifics.

They are still no good for lead alloy cast boolits and still float off as per the post.
Dromia,
I have not seen if you specified casting for muzzle loading or metallic modern cartridges?

In the second case, some hardness would need to be added to the lead by means of addition of tin and/or antimon. Linotype metal, quite difficult to find those daus,although hard to cast, are of correct hardness then I believe.

R.G.C

Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 2:53 pm
by dromia
Yep antimony is good hardener and tin helps with fill out as discussed earlier in the thread, you just wouldn't want to get your antimony from the Zamak WWs as the zinc would porridge the lead alloy.

Linotype is a good antimony source as is lead WWS, You can still get a hold of linotype quiet easily there are still a few craft printers about that need supplying, a mate of mine got half a ton the other day from a scrappy at a very good price. Problem with buying most cast boolit alloy is the price of transporting it if you can't collect. Last time I bought linotype I got nigh on 20 cwt so that will keep me going for a while as you don't need much to get "pure" lead up to a useable BHN.

People tend to cast boolits far harder than is really necessary for their application.

Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 3:51 pm
by Alpha1
So Adam my freind my buddy tell me were can I get hold of scrap Linotype. :roll: :roll:

Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 7:54 pm
by FredB
It all depends on what you need the bullet for. Bullets cast in pure lead will work up to around 1200'/sec. 20:1 lead and tin will work up to around 1450'/sec. Any faster and you need antimoney in the mix and a gas check is a good idea. Bullets which are too hard for the velocity you are using will still work well provided that they are groove diameter or up to 2 thou over. Hard bullets which are undersized will not "set-up" in the bore, gas will get round the sides of the bullets and bore leading will be the result.
I have actually worn out a lubri-sizer in my pistol shooting days and replaced it. Today, I only use it if I really need to size the bullet. With nitro powders, I conducted a long series of tests about 10yrs ago and concluded that un-sized bullets, tumble lubed in liquid alox were more acurate ( I tested 357Mag and 44-40).
Today, I only use my '92 Winchester on turning target competitions at up to 50yds and I use wheel weights and any un-known lead material for this. With modern wheel weights, zinc floats to the top and can be skimmed off. The next time you melt the metal, more zinc will float to the top. I do not recommend modern wheel weights for any loads from which you expect high accuracy. All my precision loads for nitro powder are cast 20:1 lead and tin. In addition to round balls for black powder guns I cast .32 S&W Long, .297-25, 300 Sherwood, 310 Cadet, 44-40, .43 Mauser, 8.15 x 46R and .577. Two of these (.310Cadet & 8.15 x 46R) cannot be sized before use. They are very accurate.
Fred

Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 7:57 pm
by dromia
Alpha1 wrote:So Adam my freind my buddy tell me were can I get hold of scrap Linotype. :roll: :roll:
I'll have a word with Dodgyrog and see if he'll divulge his latest source.

Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 8:12 pm
by dromia
Aye Fred you are right about good groove size, 2 thou is the standard recommended and works well as a rule of thumb. However for best bulllet fit, and consequently accuracy then nothing beats taking a chamber/thoat/lead slug and getting a bullet that fits the throat.

When all that comes together you'll be surpised at how soft an alloy you can get away with. In my No 4 T which has had a GC mould cut to fit its throat I'll get up to 1800 fps with the softest of range scrap around 9BHN and that is with good consistent accuracy. For 1000yrds loads, 198 gn bullet at around 2200 fps I take the BHN up to 20BHN but you still need to keep the alloy malleable so you need to watch the lino type as this inceases brittleness along with hardness. I'll hold my average with this load so long as I'm meticulous about the QC on the boolits.

Re: Wheel Weights

Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 8:38 pm
by Alpha1
I can vouch for that I wish I could shoot as well with jacketed bullets as Adam can with his cast loads in his No4T.
I have seen his cast bullet work shop and nosed around in his smelting bay. ITS IMPRESSIVE.
I am so jealous I have never seen so many bullet moulds in one place. WOW. :cry: