The UK's Finest Independent Forum for Shooters and Gun Owners. Est 2010.

there is always some more must have kit that you have just read about that will make your bullets faster, straighter, more accurate or more consistent.

Don't I know it, once my wife jokingly threatened to add up how much all my reloading gear was worth. I had to nip that one in the bud smartish.

Blu

Quick question: Is kitchen worktop going to be ok for a reloading bench?

My current plan is to put a six foot length of it in the garage with some strong legs and attached to the wall, then use this as a combined work and reloading bench. I thought about doing this in the house, but decided I would be a bit more left alone out in the garage.

User702 wrote:Is kitchen worktop going to be ok for a reloading bench?

Depends a bit on the worktop. Is it chipboard, blockboard, stainless steel, granite etc?

Here are a few criteria for a loading bench to get started:

• Rigid.
• Sturdy.
• Preferably a material/pattern that doesn’t hide powder kernels or small components.
• Suitable for your chosen mounting system for presses, vices, etc (e.g. drill & bolt, track system, under-bench-receiver system).
• Rigid.
• Sturdy.

..

Rox,

Looking at the mighty 'bay, it seems that six foot lengths of kitchen worktop can be had for cheap money and I think that the judicious use of 2x4 and 3 inch post for supporting structure may well make it sturdy. The worktop itself will make it pretty rigid.

As for losing small things, I'm quite capable of doing that myself. I'll be setting up a plastic try for reloading though, that way I can smear the rest of the thing in grease, oil, etc and keep something clean for gun stuff.

User702 wrote:As for losing small things, I'm quite capable of doing that myself. I'll be setting up a plastic try for reloading though, that way I can smear the rest of the thing in grease, oil, etc and keep something clean for gun stuff.

The reason I mention it is because sometimes you'll find some powder kernels on the bench, then you might start scratching your head and thinking "How did they get there; I wonder if there are now some rounds with some powder missing". The sooner you spot any such mishaps the better, and I can imagine some kitchen worktops where the colour or pattern that would make it difficult to see a few kernels that had bounced or spilled.

..

Mine is black with grey flecks, in hindsight not the best choice of colours, however, it does look nice :lol:

Heh! I was looking at an offcut of nice, light Beech, then I realised that I'm just going to get it dirty and will probably end up drilling holes in it or something. I might as well just go for cheap laminate instead (although the beech would look nicer)

I'm considering reloading myself now. A quick leading question - At what point does the round qualify towards your total ammo count? Is it at the point where the bullet is pressed into the brass complete with powder and primer?

Assuming so, am I...

1) Free to own as much brass, powder and as many primers as I want?
2) Able to store the primers in cleaned brass waiting for the bullet and powder in excess of my ammo count?

It is also a good way of cheating the max allowance to a point in that you can shoot and re-load as and when, but stay under the max allowed without worrying too much where the next load is coming from.

Only completed rounds count towards your ammo hold allowance.

However, if you use expanding ammunition for stalking/vermin control etc. each individual expanding bullet counts even when not part of a complete loaded round.

1. Almost yes, there's a 15Kg limit for nitrocellulose powders, it also includes any powder you have in complete ammunition, shotgun shells and primers (in cases or loose).

2. Yes

I use MDF for my work benches its denser than work top. Just get it cut to the size you want.
I own a Lee hand press I would never try to full length size with it you would need arms like popeye. If you decide to neck size buy the Lee loader it does everything you need to load a complete round of any given calibre and its about the same price as the hand press.
The only other thing you need is a good beam scale.(Not Lee)
Save up your pennies while you are learning to use your Lee loader and buy your self a good single station O frame cast iron press it will last you a lifetime. A RCBS rock chucker or a Lyman crusher or a Lee cast press.