kennyc wrote:sounds good, but will planning control accept a 70mm cavity?
Why not? The cavity does not need to be stuffed full of insulation and if the insulation has a suitable rating then why not? If the architect/designer shows suitable calcs then they are not in a position to argue.
However, as it sounds as though a stud wall is teh preference, then I would still suggest a Celotex layer 30-40mm thick and the spacing between studs stuffed with insulation such as HEMP or Wool - not rockwool. Hemp & Wool are extremely good, and do not irritate in the same was as Rockwool or fibreglass. I have used both.
"The trouble with quotes on the internet is that it's difficult to discern whether or not they are genuine." - Abraham Lincoln
Why did kamikaze pilots wear helmets?
God loves stupid people, that is why he made so many of them.
Blimey it feels like such a long time since this started, but a slow builder, and ever changing circumstances for me meant this didn't start until May this year. Nearly there now, and went with a 4x2 timber frame construction in the end with 18mm plywood lining the front and the back with extra noggins at the heights of the fixing holes for the cabinets. Cabinets attached with 90mm long M10 coach screws, into about 85mm of timber. Should be plenty strong enough. Anyway a few pics of how it's coming along. I've made a reloading/cleaning/servicing room within the new man cave. I wanted to make a 'clean' area as the rest will be for general DIY / woodwork. Not the hugest space for the gun area (165cm wide by 190cm from front to back) but should hopefully serve me well. Just contacted Surrey Police to get a visit from the FEO to try and pull the cabinets from the wall.
I'm almost in the same situation... we've having a 2 storey extension built, and one of the ground floor rooms is going to be my man-cave... computer desk, reloading and fettling bench, and gun cabinet.
It seems the main problem with modern building is the damn thermal blocks they use for inner walls... trying to fix anything to them is like screwing into cheese...!!
(If I'd realised what they were like, I'd have specified breeze or concrete blocks around that room.)
Spoken to my FEO and shes happy if I use resin bonded bolts in the walls to fix the cabinet.
Daryll wrote:I'm almost in the same situation... we've having a 2 storey extension built, and one of the ground floor rooms is going to be my man-cave... computer desk, reloading and fettling bench, and gun cabinet.
It seems the main problem with modern building is the damn thermal blocks they use for inner walls... trying to fix anything to them is like screwing into cheese...!!
(If I'd realised what they were like, I'd have specified breeze or concrete blocks around that room.)
Spoken to my FEO and shes happy if I use resin bonded bolts in the walls to fix the cabinet.
There are some specific plugs that really do grip in thermal blocks. I'll find a link and post later
"The trouble with quotes on the internet is that it's difficult to discern whether or not they are genuine." - Abraham Lincoln
Why did kamikaze pilots wear helmets?
God loves stupid people, that is why he made so many of them.
Daryll wrote:It seems the main problem with modern building is the damn thermal blocks they use for inner walls... trying to fix anything to them is like screwing into cheese...!! (If I'd realised what they were like, I'd have specified breeze or concrete blocks around that room.)
That was a big concern for me. In the end I went for timber frame inside and traditional brick for the outer skin of the extension - really dislike the big block construction which seems to be the norm now.
[/quote]sounds good, but will planning control accept a 70mm cavity?[/quote]
Why would building control baulk at that? I've specified wider in the past without issue - so long as the overall construction meets the required u value
I have learned from my mistakes, and I am sure I can repeat them exactly - Peter Cook
Daryll wrote:I'm almost in the same situation... we've having a 2 storey extension built, and one of the ground floor rooms is going to be my man-cave... computer desk, reloading and fettling bench, and gun cabinet.
It seems the main problem with modern building is the damn thermal blocks they use for inner walls... trying to fix anything to them is like screwing into cheese...!!
(If I'd realised what they were like, I'd have specified breeze or concrete blocks around that room.)
Spoken to my FEO and shes happy if I use resin bonded bolts in the walls to fix the cabinet.
Have a look at the FUR range from Fischer. Use 4 of them 100mm into the blocks and see if you can shift the attached cabinet.
Daryll wrote:I'm almost in the same situation... we've having a 2 storey extension built, and one of the ground floor rooms is going to be my man-cave... computer desk, reloading and fettling bench, and gun cabinet.
It seems the main problem with modern building is the damn thermal blocks they use for inner walls... trying to fix anything to them is like screwing into cheese...!!
(If I'd realised what they were like, I'd have specified breeze or concrete blocks around that room.)
Spoken to my FEO and shes happy if I use resin bonded bolts in the walls to fix the cabinet.
Have a look at the FUR range from Fischer. Use 4 of them 100mm into the blocks and see if you can shift the attached cabinet.
On other forums the Fisher frame fixings have been recommended, but the general consensus seemed to be resin bolts were better, and my FEO was happy when I mentioned them, along with the other security arrangements I'm thinking about.
I've got some other stuff to fix before the cabinet, and I've got some Fisher plugs for those, so we'll see how they perform.
One point.. you suggest putting them 100mm in....these are only 100mm thick blocks, so they would expand at the far side, making them more likely to break/crumble..?? surely its better to go 50-60mm in and have them expand in the middle of the block..??
You could use the 80mm fixings - drill 90 deep of a little more if you have plaster board, keep the hole TIGHT, do not use hammer/percussion and clean it out.
Any doubts - call Fischer Tech support. They are a great team, always will to chat and discuss your problem and te best solution.
My TV bracket is fixed using 8mm diameter, 80 long FUR fixings into lightweight blocks and "it ain't shifting!" I could swing off it.
Just think, four of those and couple through the base into the floor and you have a real strong fix.
"The trouble with quotes on the internet is that it's difficult to discern whether or not they are genuine." - Abraham Lincoln
Why did kamikaze pilots wear helmets?
God loves stupid people, that is why he made so many of them.
I have mounted mine in a similar way, providing your cabinet is mounted in a sensible place within your house, in accordance with the guidelines, most FEO's will take a look at the fixings, then simply grab hold of your cabinet and give it a bloody good pull and push, no movement and it should pass!
You can only take sensible precautions within reason, after all if a couple of burly blokes with bars and levers are determined to break in and remove your cabinet, then they will given enough time !
