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Alpha1 wrote:Any idea how to re calibrate a Hornady beam scale I am considering buying a target master trickler. But before I do I need to sort my beam scale out every now and then it seems to stick the beam goes to the bottom of the scale with a charge in the pan if you flick the beam with your finger it comes up to the zero mark with twenty grains of powder in the pan for instance. It then indicates correctly. Very puzzling and not a good way to re load ammo.(I have electronic scales but I much prefer a beam scale.)

I have a Hornady scale and although they are pretty basic they are usually reliable. The basic tare weight is set by the two locknuts near the pan hanger but there must be another problem with your set. It could be that the damper is sticking on the scale body when at the bottom of its travel - I'll dig my Hornady/Pacific scales out tomorrow and have a proper look.

Thank you I would appreciate that.

Dougan wrote:The videos are very interesting sign92

I've had some 10-10s for about a year, and although I do like them, find them a bit more tricky to set up and use than I expected...

One problem is with the beam - sometimes the beam shifts, so that the dampener plate isn't right in the middle of the magnets...and I have to shift it back again...

The other, is sometimes, using either the TM or manual trickler - I bring the load gently up to the zero, but then if I give the beam a tiny touch...it raises above the zero, and stays there...

The only thing I can think of is a problem with the knife edges, or the poly they sit on - but I haven't done more than clean them gently with a dry cloth, as I don't want to knacker them.

Any advice on these problems, or any more good info on the use of scales, is much appreciated :cheers:

I think you have identified the problem, it's probably the knife edges but I would start by taking the bearing end plates off and removing the bearings. These need a good clean with some spirit based fluid to remove any trace of grease.

I always polish the outside of the bearing block with 1200 wet&dry then rub some boron nitride powder on them and also polish the bump they sit on, they must be free to wobble about. (they are made of agate and very hard) Then you need to polish the inside of the bearing end plate to remove any minute burrs where the knife edge pivot points touch.

Inspect the knife edge through a high power glass, there should be no dull edges or burrs and the pivot points should be sharp and inline with the knife edge. If the pivot points are in good condition it shouldn't really matter that they are touching the bearing end plates.
The damper not being centeral in the slot shouldn't be a problem as long as it's not making any contact.

Here is a 505 scale I had a look at this week.

Nice one TM sign92

I'll give my scales a 'service', as per your instructions - and let you know how it goes....

1066 wrote:

Alpha1 wrote:Any idea how to re calibrate a Hornady beam scale I am considering buying a target master trickler. But before I do I need to sort my beam scale out every now and then it seems to stick the beam goes to the bottom of the scale with a charge in the pan if you flick the beam with your finger it comes up to the zero mark with twenty grains of powder in the pan for instance. It then indicates correctly. Very puzzling and not a good way to re load ammo.(I have electronic scales but I much prefer a beam scale.)

I have a Hornady scale and although they are pretty basic they are usually reliable. The basic tare weight is set by the two locknuts near the pan hanger but there must be another problem with your set. It could be that the damper is sticking on the scale body when at the bottom of its travel - I'll dig my Hornady/Pacific scales out tomorrow and have a proper look.

Ok - I've had a look at my Hornady/Pacific scales and I think I have found the problem.
What seems to happen is that if the tare is not set correctly so that the beam is more or less level when in the zero position the beam becomes top heavy and sits in the bottom position.

I have taken a couple photos but Photobucket is down at the moment so I can't upload them. I'll post them when I can.

An easy fix is to place a small strip of cardboard or felt about 2mm thick in the bottom of the damper slot to stop the beam dropping down quite so far and going over centre.

For best results with these scales the jacking screw needs to be well extended then the two locknuts adjusted to give a zero reading this will make the beam near level when zeroed.
Also you could loosen the bearing screws and turn them 90 degrees and use a fresh part of the bearing just incase there are any burrs on the bearing surface.

Thanks I will have a go at re zeroing it bearing in mind your comments.

Think you might be right I have checked the scale. When the scale is on zero the leveling screw is hardly wound out at all and the beam is angled down it is definatelly not level. I am going to have a go at re zeroing it.

Here's the pics :-

Thank you for that information I have been asking the same question on other forums for a age with out any body being able to help.
If all goes well I will be ordering one of you trickler thingy m jigs. Thank you for your help much appreciated..

Thanks I think I have got it sorted now. I have ordered a taget master trickler once it arrives I will be able to see how successfull my tinkering has been.