The UK's Finest Independent Forum for Shooters and Gun Owners. Est 2010.

Dot and dab plasterboard onto thermalite blocks is never going to offer much physical strength to secure to. Any type of expansion fixing will pull out of the block if you try hard enough. You could chem fix a bolt or stud but that's a bit more permenent than you wanted. Best bet is to mount it on the floor, secure to the wall with a few expansion bolts as above and also acouple of long screws into the floor. As long as you don't get the type of FEO who opens the cab door and then swings on it you should be ok.

SloeginBill wrote:Dot and dab plasterboard onto thermalite blocks is never going to offer much physical strength to secure to. Any type of expansion fixing will pull out of the block if you try hard enough. You could chem fix a bolt or stud but that's a bit more permenent than you wanted. Best bet is to mount it on the floor, secure to the wall with a few expansion bolts as above and also acouple of long screws into the floor. As long as you don't get the type of FEO who opens the cab door and then swings on it you should be ok.

I'll disagree with that. Using the right fixings such as the SXRs or if they can be found FURs will give a very good fix provided they are correctly installed.

Depends on the block. Modern thermalite tend to be soft as the proverbial and just crumble under pressure so even the best quality fixing will be unable to maintain any real purchase. Get ahold of the cab and pull and it will come away. Try it with one fitted with rawlbolts into brick or concrete and it won't move.

Reading all the above, and given I live in a new build with plasterboard dabbed to thermalite I might be be best off lying the cabinet on its back in the understairs cupboard and bolting through to the floor. Previous owner had his bolted to a gable wall in the loft but he only had a single shotgun, not the array of noisy toys I have persuaded Mrs Dombo63 I need.

I still believe that you should be able to mount on the wall.

Call Fischer Tech support for advice 0800 328 2630 Get a couple of samples of FUR fixings and try them on Thermalites.

I have my television fitted to a Thermalite block wall - and challenge anyone to pull the bracket off.

Four good fixings, or even more if you want to drill the cabinet. Then some coachbolts into the floor ... or even fit it in a corner and screw through both back and side ...

Does the FEO have a view on this sort of wall, he may say no regardless of fixings. Mine has been advising me recently on what he would prefer alarm wise and although he cannot tell me specifically what I have to fit he can give me a very good indication.

Dombo63 wrote:Reading all the above, and given I live in a new build with plasterboard dabbed to thermalite I might be be best off lying the cabinet on its back in the understairs cupboard and bolting through to the floor. Previous owner had his bolted to a gable wall in the loft but he only had a single shotgun, not the array of noisy toys I have persuaded Mrs Dombo63 I need.

I have just had to call Fischer about another issue and asked their advice.

Two options:

FUR type frame fixings http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-unive ... f-10/84544 they have a countersunk head, so a couple of decent washers might be needed to help them seat. The small teeth really cut it and don't put any significant strain on the block.

Resin - undercut. Place cabinet and drill holes slightly smaller than required for the resin and fixing. Then using the same entry point, drill up, down, left and right to create a bubble deep in the block. Clean out with a vacuum cleaner. Then fill with resin and insert the anchors - some resin will spill out into the gap between block and board which will not be an issue.

Polchraine wrote:

Dombo63 wrote:Reading all the above, and given I live in a new build with plasterboard dabbed to thermalite I might be be best off lying the cabinet on its back in the understairs cupboard and bolting through to the floor. Previous owner had his bolted to a gable wall in the loft but he only had a single shotgun, not the array of noisy toys I have persuaded Mrs Dombo63 I need.

I have just had to call Fischer about another issue and asked their advice.

Two options:

FUR type frame fixings http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-unive ... f-10/84544 they have a countersunk head, so a couple of decent washers might be needed to help them seat. The small teeth really cut it and don't put any significant strain on the block.

Resin - undercut. Place cabinet and drill holes slightly smaller than required for the resin and fixing. Then using the same entry point, drill up, down, left and right to create a bubble deep in the block. Clean out with a vacuum cleaner. Then fill with resin and insert the anchors - some resin will spill out into the gap between block and board which will not be an issue.

fischer do a special drill bit with a fitting to allow it to rotate around a fixed point to create the cavity, I fixed the heater in the picture below about 3 years ago, with the Fischer recommended fixings, and its still there before anyone asks :P

I know they do the cutter - but they are not cheap! The method in my post was based on the Fischer reps advice.

My cabinets are fixed to Thermalite walls with no qualms from the FEO, I used resin and studs in the walls and then figured out that it's just a two part epoxy (at £9.99 a tube)...... car body filler is (nominally) the same stuff, but it's a little trickier to poke into the holes!