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My house is relatively modern so bolting to an external wall (inside a cupboard) means going through plasterboard before hitting solid blockwork. The plan is to cut away the portion of skirting board in the built in cupboard so the cabinet stands flush to the wall. What fixing bolts do people recommend? I'm thinking six-inch coach bolts with a metal expander rawl thingy but welcome any other suggestions.
Also, my local police have suggested I wait until the FEO first visits before fixing the cabinet so s/he can ok the position, but that will mean two visits.
Thanks for any advice.

ovenpaa wrote:You could always turn it upside down.... unless it has an inner compartment.

I did that once, a spring failed in one of the locks and without gravity helping it would not open! I had to attack the thing with violence to get it open.

Dombo63 wrote:My house is relatively modern so bolting to an external wall (inside a cupboard) means going through plasterboard before hitting solid blockwork. The plan is to cut away the portion of skirting board in the built in cupboard so the cabinet stands flush to the wall. What fixing bolts do people recommend? I'm thinking six-inch coach bolts with a metal expander rawl thingy but welcome any other suggestions.
Also, my local police have suggested I wait until the FEO first visits before fixing the cabinet so s/he can ok the position, but that will mean two visits.
Thanks for any advice.

My FEO suggested threaded rod, fixed into the wall with an epoxy

I have also used a special pack for the self same purpose - slightly smaller than a length of threaded rod - but quite successful so far!!



Used in conjunction with:


The technical bumf -
http://www.fischer.co.uk/PortalData/18/ ... ngs/17.pdf

I can vouch for the chemical fixings, just remember to fully tighten the fixings the following day.

I like to use self tapping anchor bolts.

Save the bugger on trying to align holes for the rawl bolt.

I just position the cabinet where it needs to go against the wall, drill through the cabinet holes into to the wall, I like to put the holes in at a bit of an angle for more grip, and then screw in the self tapping anchor bolts. A lot quicker and easier than plugging.

I have just put some new Brattonsound cabinets in in Scotland, on their backs fixed into a concrete floor. Went in a doddle once I had the correct sized drill bit. Thanks Paul.

if its a modern house then it almost certainly has thermalite type block inners, if so then chemical fixings will give your strongest fix, as it is very easy to "blow" out the block by over tightening Rawl bolts, I have never tried the self tapping anchors on anything other than brick or concrete but I would think the material would make a difference.

We have those thermite block things on our house extension.

Years ago when i was exploring where to site more cabinets the police said that I would need to fix through them into the brieze block outer wall.

I didn't go there in the end, life is too short, I just converted a bedroom into a monitored gun room.

The sale of my cabinets paid for all the work except the alarm.

And just before you fix it to the wall, permanent like, in an upside down state, you will test the locks to make sure they function normally?

I'm not saying they definitely won't. I'm saying that you definitely will feel silly if you fix it, fill it and then find out.

Modern cabinets are supposed to be designed with anti-leverage in mind.

I've got mine opening left and right handed because, well, I can't say....

I have been known to fix them with 20mm threaded bar set into an over-sized hole drilled into the thermalite block and backfilled with builder's brand epoxy resin. Body washers and nyloc nuts inside the cabinet with a neoprene mouse mat fixed over the ends in the interests of scratch protection. If you do use epoxy on a warm day get your finger out!

Mine is all brick and breeze blocks so its either the expanding bolts/anchor bolts or epoxy (we use it at work and its good). I will of course test the locks before I bolt it upside down sign01 that would be worse than painting yourself into the corner of a room.

Dombo63

One of the various chem fixings is your bset bet. 2 types I have used on industrial windows into soft block are
A glass vile with a 2 part resin that mixes as you break the vile, then spinn the stud/rod to mix. this would be awakward through the pboard cavity to the blocks.
The second type is a 2 part resin in a mastic type tube with a nozzel that mixes it as you sqyeeze it out. This would be easier to do as the nozzel should be longer than the cavity.
Also you will need some packing between the block and back of cabinet as the P board will compress and not provide a sold fix. Use some steel tube to make a sort of ferrul (not sure of word) or cut small squares out of pboard and use some wood. so when you tighten the nuts it will compress a little then stop solid.

Hope this helps
TW