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The MAS 36 is a very underrated well designed rifle and compare well with other military rifles of the era but being French, they are a bit quirky!

The following link poached from another shooting forum will answer many questions you may have.
You may well find that the trigger pull is on the heavy side and an easy fix is to replace the firing pin spring, a cut down M1 carbine spring is ideal if you can find one.
My MAS 36 was an un-issued arsenal refurb and it came with an 8 1/2lb trigger pull which was reduced to a comfortable 4lbs with the replacement spring.
The shorter, heavier spring in the photo is the original.
I would advise you to read the link as it may save you some grief in the long run.
Regards,
ukrifleman

https://www.gunboards.com/threads/commo ... ?id=162212

Hi
Thanks for the info, i will try and source a spring from the states, i also understand the butts might be on the short side so was going to buy a rubber butt extension pad as well.
The one i have bought is also an arsenal rebuild rifle in excellent condition and it being a bit odd doesn't bother me at all, i just fancied something different.
I will take your advice and read the link you supplied.
Cheers Ian

I obtained a genuine slip-on MAS recoil pad from the US, they come in 2 thicknesses 20mm and 30mm, so you will need to decide which one suits you best.
These were fitted to rifles that had the grenade launcher installed.
Being an arsenal refurb, your rifle will probably have a counter-bored muzzle, which was done to enable a grenade launcher to be fitted by field armourers if needed.

ukrifleman

I just picked it up today but will give it a closer inspection this week and slug the bore, i intend shooting more lead loads through it than FMJ loads.
I didnt realise the butts came in two different thicknesses so will check that out as well, also ound some M1 carbine firing pin springs on the web just need to sort out with the venber, sent messages so will wait for them to reply.
Cheers Ian

Richo wrote: ↑Sun Jun 25, 2023 1:48 pm also ound some M1 carbine firing pin springs on the web just need to sort out with the venber, sent messages so will wait for them to reply.

Where did you find the M1 carbine springs?

Hi
I just typed into Google M1 Carbine Springs and went through the listings, mainly in the US but also Italy, Dutch and Belgium dealers, i havent had the chance yet to test my trigger pull and i need to ask unrifleman which spring to use ie firing pin or recoil spring or any other as theres a few springs used in the carbines.
I will probably buy some from Europe if i need one, i am going to visit relatives in Holland early September so would have them posted to there address, cheaper and less hassle.

Some where here or elsewhere, some shooter said you could clean up the trigger pull of the MAS 36 by replacing it with a US GI carbine recoil spring cut to the same lenght as the orignial MAS spring. Well, I had a few spare GI springs so I cut one and replaced it. Sure enough, the trigger pull must be 5 pounds now and nice instead of 40 pounds and distracting.

The above comment was poached from a US forum, but explains which spring to go for.
If I remember correctly, the M1 spring is about 10" long and needs to be cut down. I would advise that you cut the M1 spring about 2" longer than original MAS spring then reduce a coil at a time until you get the trigger pull you are looking for.
Don't overdo it, otherwise you will end up with light strikes.
ukrifleman

Hi ukrifleman
ok so jts the recoil spring i need, seen them and there cheap enough to buy a couple to play with, i wasn't too sure if it was the firing pin spring but there just as cheap to buy.
Had a quick look over the MAS this afternoon and it looks just like yours same finish and condition and yes theres a slight say 1/4" counterbore to the muzzle and the butt is rather short so i will go for a 30mm butt pad.
I have started to reload the cases that came with it, and intend to use some. 310" bullets i cast for my 7.62x39, i tend to use 2400 and 5744 and the new lovax equivalent because i have plenty, but also have a little 4227 left so might try that, will start off with what i used for my 303"s and work up, dont really see me shooting it over 200 yards so wont need anything over 1800fps.
Thanks for your advice and imput.
Cheers Ian

Hi Ian,
I shot mine out to 600 yards and it performed just as well as my No.4 Enfield and Mauser Gew 98.
A couple of other things, the fore sight on a MAS 36 is not adjustable for windage, you do it by changing the rear sight.

The correct way of adjusting a Mas 36 is by replacing its rear sight leaf by another one with the peep hole drilled off center.

There should be a letter or several signs stamped on the top of the rear sight leaf, indicating if it is centered or offset.

Value of offset
N = 0 (centered)
-4 or +4 = bring the group 135mm down or up at 200M
-8 or +8 = bring the group 270mm down or up at 200M
D4 or G4 = move the group 135mm to the right or to the left at 200M
D8 or G8 = move the group 270mm to the right or to the left at 200M

For the post WWII rifles there are 24 different rear sight leaf's available for adjustment beside the N sight and only 8 for the pre WWII models.

The other thing is, you will notice that the lower barrel band screw has 2 holes that needed a special tool to turn it, this was to prevent French troops messing with the tension, as this was adjusted by armourers. You can make a tool easily enough by filing down a screwdriver into a `V`.
Altering the screw tension, will upset the barrel harmonics and compromise accuracy. If you do need to alter it then you will have to re-tune it on the range, fire a couple of rounds and adjust the screw tension and repeat until accuracy is restored.
Finally, the fore-stock should not move, if it does then this could also affect accuracy.
Wood can shrink over time and if it is loose, then you will need to remove it and shim the locating hook. Shim kits were available but you can make shims out of beer or pop cans. It needs to be shimmed so that the fore-stock `snaps over centre` at about 15 degrees to the barrel to get the right tension and once in position, it should not move.

Enjoy your new toy!
Regards,
ukrifleman

Had it out again today to check the points you mentioned, the sight leaf is marked with an N and all the woodwork is solid and shows no sign of movement so again all seems good.
ive come across those security screws before and its an easy job to make up a screwdriver bit to fit (i am a retired machinist so making one on a milling machine is not going to be over taxing).
One question is when i eventually get to the range with it and find the sights are off, how easy to get your hands on the offset sights, i assume from France!!
Ian