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Personally I think a better plan would be to learn to walk before you run. Get a decent single stage press and a basic set of .308 dies. Buy some factory rounds, shoot them in your rifle, if you do some proper recording and shoot groups at 100/200 yards, you will have some control data and brass, you need to equal or better the groups with you handloads.

I think you will have enough to worry about, full length v Neck sizing, small base dies, flaring cases, mixed headstamps, multiple firings in different rifles, case head separation, trimming etc. without worrying about getting to grips with a progressive press.

A single stage always has a place, even if you decide to move to a progressive later.

Wise words Allan but unfortunately rarely heeded by those besotted by "ammunition machines".

I've given up advocating such a sensible approach to hand loading on here, black powder versus substitutes is another classic, as like most things is rarely heeded, people will find things out for themselves in fullness of time, cost doesn't seem to be an issue nowadays and frugality a lost virtue. As my father used to wistfully say to me when I was boy "you cannae put a auld heid on young shoulders".

Agreed, both my Lee progressives now work very nicely for "bulk" ammunition (44mag & 300aac) but were a PITA to set up originally. I only feed the progressives fully cleaned, prepped and primed brass.

All my rifle ammo (apart from 300aac) is made on single stage presses (RCBS Rockchucker or Lee Breech Lock) it may be slower than the progressives but I'm looking for consistency of operation not speed.

1066 wrote:Personally I think a better plan would be to learn to walk before you run. Get a decent single stage press ....

A single stage always has a place, even if you decide to move to a progressive later.

Totally agree.

Hello,

I neck-size only; this helps the brass last longer and contributes to precision. Using my pet Mosin-Nagant as an example, I buy and fire brass-cased ammo, like PPU. It's then sized to that chamber and I do not need to mess with it any longer. Following that first firing, I :

1. Throw the cases into a tumbler. Mine is just an old rock tumbler filled with corncob that you might line a pet rodent's cage with.

2. After tumbling, I neck size only and decap at the same time. I lube the case necks using a felt pad made for that purpose; alcohol-diluted lanolin is the lubricate. Cleaning the flash holes and primer pockets is included in this step.

3. After neck sizing, I trim. I do this every time for uniformity's sake. At the same time I trim, I use a bent brass rod, small diameter, to probe the case head to make sure the next firing won't result in a separation. Deburring follows trimming, naturally.

4. Following the trimming, I anneal the case necks and shoulders. This further extends life of the cases and helps keep uniform grip on the bullets. (When annealing, do NOT get 'em red hot. The right temp is found at about a dull red glow in dusk light conditions.)

I now consider my cases ready to be reloaded. I may do a step #5 in which I spin-polish the cases with #0000 steel wool, but these days that's sorta' rare unless I'm putting a pic on the Internet. For example:



Most of my loads don't look that pretty. They used to, but now I'm more interested in shooting than loading!

Regards,

Josh

A max bullets in a Mosin Nagant wow I'm impressed now that's what I call ammo.

Not sure they are Amax with that canelure

Hornady ?

I think ovenpaa is right Hornady A max don't have a canelure.

Hornady do plenty of tipped bullets that do.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/565403 ... box-of-100