The UK's Finest Independent Forum for Shooters and Gun Owners. Est 2010.

Saw this bad boy at the Scottish Game Fair. Very impressive.

http://www.clunycountrystore.co.uk/loka ... /lokdd.htm

Duey wrote:Any of the advertised brands of gun safes will be passed by your FEO on his visit as long as it's of sufficient size to accommodate what your asking for and is securely bolted to a Solid wall with rawl bolts

Be careful with expanding Rawlbolts in brick walls as the brick can shatter. I use M10 concrete screwbolts, they are very effective.

Racalman wrote:

Duey wrote:Any of the advertised brands of gun safes will be passed by your FEO on his visit as long as it's of sufficient size to accommodate what your asking for and is securely bolted to a Solid wall with rawl bolts

Be careful with expanding Rawlbolts in brick walls as the brick can shatter. I use M10 concrete screwbolts, they are very effective.

I prefer this stuff

http://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-r-ke ... 00ml/32863

its a bit like a tube of araldite. drill your holes, line up your cabinets, pump some in a hole, insert bit of studding, few spins on the studding, move onto the next hole, wait 15 mins, stick some nuts on and tighten, pop back in about an hour and really crank on them. so much nicer than rawlbolts, plus you are drilling smaller holes. You can even drill the hole with the cabinet in place if you want (depending if you have any long drills that is). then if you ever want to remove the cabinets, you can stick two nuts on, lock them up and unwind the studding out of the wall, only leaving a small hole to tidy up.

I have been using large plugs and coach bolts into concrete to hold shelving up and the concept works surprisingly well plus they can be removed at a later date if needed.

Ovenpaa wrote:I have been using large plugs and coach bolts into concrete to hold shelving up and the concept works surprisingly well plus they can be removed at a later date if needed.

I agree, an ideal way ... plugs are now much better than they were and expanding bolts can be problematic unless you know exactly what is behind.

The large plugs are often used to support sanitary ware and Fischer sell them in packs of two or four often with coach screws (which have a taper and point).


Fischer SX 70mm long 14 dia plugs http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fisch ... pack/28011 with a 80, 90 or 100 long coach screw.

Also worth putting four 25 long 8mm coach screws through the base into the floor - or as I do, fit a 20 or 25mm thick piece of high quality dense ply on the floor with shims and wood screws to get it perfectly level and then some 40mm long coach screws to fit the cabinet.

For soft walls - lightweight blocks, it is possible that Fischer FUR fixings - could be considered: http://www.fischer.co.uk/Home/tabid-142 ... 001000987/

I prefer the self tapping wall bolts, easiest to use and the hole can be drilled trough the holes in the safe when it is in situ

I'm with Polchraine, coach screws with Fischer plugs.

Our Armoury door frame is held in place with 18 self tapping wall bolts, I was a bit sceptical bout them however they were specified by the door manufacturer so we went ahead with them. They are impressive and I would hate to have to take them out again...

Those self tappers get as tight as a nun's chumpff.

bradaz11 wrote: I prefer this stuff

http://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-r-ke ... 00ml/32863

I have used that previously on a cabinet attached to a breeze block wall. It's OK but rather fiddly and time consuming compared to drilling a few holes and screwing these babies in:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-blue-t ... pack/14046