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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
BobSki wrote:
As these cartridges were fired in my old Parker Hale 7.62, in order to prepare the cases for the new rifle, I decided to full-length resize and de-cap them.
I'm sure it's the FL die Bob is referring to..
Hi SimG
Yes buddy, it is the full length die I'm referring to.
Thanks for your help chaps, I'll follow the instructions phaedra1106 and SimG have included above and see what happens. I'll let you know how I get on but I can't do it for a day or so.
I've had that with a .223 that had a damaged decapping pin. I've also seen people claim it happened when they over lubed a case but never seen that first hand.
Die adjustment aside, it's essential to thoroughly clean the inside of a new FLS die to remove any preservative grease type coating, and also to really thoroughly lube cases - even more so than usual as a new die has no lube coating left from previous cases. New dies are often therefore very sticky and any deficiencies in case lubrication can produce such damage.
However, I'd say that the telescoped case was more likely due to either the decap/expand stem being incorrectly positioned within the die body and/or the retaining collet not being tight enough. Die manufacturers have moved the expander 'ball' to a higher position on the stem in recent years to start the expanding operation earlier on the press-ram downstroke where there is a better mechanical advantage in the press linkage, and Lee has also made the ball very long and tapered like an upside down elongated pear. The higher the start of the 'ball', the more critical its position in relation to the case neck and die body. It's very easy in some die designs to leave insufficient clearance between the ball and the neck-section of the die body trapping the case and stopping its free movement fully into the die. If the GGG brass is thick-necked, this makes this problem more likely as it reduces clearances further.
Take your FLS die, remove the decap / expand stem, clean its interior with bore solvent, meths spirit or similar, and then try a well lubed case without the stem in place. It should now work without any problems or excessive effort. If so, replace the expander stem and lube the inside of the case-neck as it'll take considerable effort to size that case again pushing the expander fat end first into the sized down neck. While you've got the stem out check the decap pin is undamaged and concentric with the rod. If it doesn't 'find' the flash-hole and bottoms on the case-web on the ram upstroke, it'll stop moving down as the press is operated, slip in the securing collet on the die-body top and create the clearance problem with the expander ball.
I know when I first got it out of the box, I tried to dismantle it and the decapping pin, locking nut, sizing taper etc. came out very easily but there was a large collet that initially just would not come out, to the point where I thought it wasn't meant to. It would slide up and down inside the body about 1/2 inch but refused to come out. However, after the first case failure, I dismantled it again and this time it did come out. As soon as I can, I will take photographs of the die in question and also of its component parts, so you can see exactly what I am dealing with.
I think we need that photograph of the die you are talking about.
From your last post it does indeed sound like a collet die.
If so then the decap pin/mandrel shouldn't pop out.
I am a big fan of the Lee collet die but like most Lee kit it is shipped unfinished and will need fettling before use.
The fingers on the collet where they mate with the collet sleeve needs to be polished and lubricated after thorough cleaning of the manufacturing fluids. If not these two parts tend to bind together when under pressure from the ram, this closes the collet fingers and stops the case neck entering the collet thus crushing the case.
The bottom part of the collet that protrudes from the bottom of the die should always be loose when the ram is down and there should be a little vertical play with the collet being able to be moved up and down with your finger.
Come on Bambi get some
Imperial Good Metric Bad
Analogue Good Digital Bad
These show the whole Ultimate Die kit, the Full length Die before and after use and its components. It can be seen that after use, the decapping pin has been pushed up through the top of its collet.
I was getting my wires a bit crossed in the earlier post, as the collet that seemed "stuck" was on the neck sizing die NOT on the full length die I am having trouble with.
Hopefully tomorrow, I will get chance to take my ipad out to the reloading bench and follow the instructions/tips you guys have been gracious enough to offer.
