Making primers safe

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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should treated as suspect and not used.

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Forum rules
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.

Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
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mr smith
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Re: Making primers safe

#11 Post by mr smith »

Done it a few times,load up press muzzle into a cloth and pop.
Steve E

Re: Making primers safe

#12 Post by Steve E »

You could always just de-prime the cases using your standard sizing/de-priming die or a universal de-capping die (preferred choice). I have de-primed hundreds of rounds that way and never had a primer go bang. I use a universal de-priming die and gentle pressure. The retrieved primer can then be used if required.
And before some one shouts danger, remember that a primer needs a certain amount of sudden force on it, for it to operate. Using a die to remove the primer does not apply the necessary sudden force required for the primer to operate. If you dont belief me, put a primer in the jaws of a vice and tighten up. The primer will be crushed but will not go bang. Wear suitable protection if you feel the need.

I also found out twenty odd years ago that oil/diesel/wd40 or water does not necessarily render a primer inert and so do not bother to try. I have a sneaky suspicion that some primers have a laquer between the compound and the anvil that that makes them impervious to oil etc.
Bullseye

Re: Making primers safe

#13 Post by Bullseye »

Hauptman wrote:The anvil will leave the primer at around 1800fps,
Hauptman
:good: Yeap sure is!!! I had an Anvil hit my thumb at that speed! A fool I was when I was younger thinking a blank primer will be safer then ones in live rounds only think it be a big toy cap ring to set of a little bit of flash powder :oops: .... it went of with a bang even when the main flash charge was removed!,! the primer blown out the pocket anvil hit my thumb, My thumb was black, plus the surface etc! I was in alot pain! plus black pinch mark!!! a little anvil light did that to me... troutslapping

I did found that primer, used a digital vernier caliper to measure the primer cup... and it had the same wall thickness and dia .175 as a small pistol primer... that is a standard one, I wounder if .357mag are loaded with hotter magnum primers :roll:

SteveE its possible to remove a live primer without it going bang, just a nice steady slow action in de-priming them, they can even be reused sometimes, but best to fire them first.

If the cases are damaged you will need to investigate why & how such damage has happened? All guns need to be well maintained. just like any machinery to get a good life from it. it depends on how often its used, but still be checked on and fresh oiled etc

It should be cleaned and oiled after shooting, and regular inspections too. Then a good service every 3 months. most problems are found during cleaning.

Firing the primed case should be fine, theres no crimp or bullet on top, so the primer gases will exit the case freely without causing expansion on the case. if a damp rag is over the muzzle. It should muffle ok. it may sound like someone dropping something abit heavy or doing DIY!
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Re: Making primers safe

#14 Post by Mattnall »

Why don't you...

De-cap the cases and keep the primers to one side ready for reloading later on?

Is there some reason you're intent on wasting these primers?
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Re: Making primers safe

#15 Post by Dougan »

Mattnall wrote:Why don't you...

De-cap the cases and keep the primers to one side ready for reloading later on?
If I did it again, knowing what I know now, I would re-use them - but after putting them in oil and then water for several days I'm reluctant to use them.
Dougan

Re: Making primers safe

#16 Post by Dougan »

I think some folk didn't understand what I was asking in my opening question (not like that to happen razz )...

...I wasn't asking which is the best method for firing them off in the case...I think that all the various methods are fine, as long as you're considerate of your surroundings and take adequate precautions.

The problem was that when I started the process I was confident that the oil and water (as I'd been told) would render them inert - Then when I looked at them, they looked good as new...thus the 'lump hammer test' - So It had not been my intention to end up with 20 potentially live primers that I couldn't re-use...

...now the problem is that I can't put them in the bin (obviously), and I wanted to avoid the 'where can put these live primers' conversation at my local tip...

...So...can anyone answer the original question...which is; how do you (100% for sure) make safe and/or dispose of live primers?
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Alpha1
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Re: Making primers safe

#17 Post by Alpha1 »

You could use a priming tool and seat them in a case put a charge of powder in it may be a reduced load seat a bullet and shoot them on your local range.
Dougan

Re: Making primers safe

#18 Post by Dougan »

Alpha - yes, just using them is an option (and if I get misfires, then so be it)....

...but I was looking for a known and simple way of just rendering them harmless for throwing away...

...someone at my local club suggested boiling them, but I really thought I'd get the right answer here...
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dromia
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Re: Making primers safe

#19 Post by dromia »

The only sure way of making the compound in primers safe is a long soak say two weeks in a strong akaline solution like bleach or ammonia followed by an equally long soak in a strong acid solution like hydrochloric, sulphuric and nitric are also suitable. The liquids need to be in good contact with the priming solids as they deteriorate so regular agitation is a good idea. I use 35mm film canisters, remember them. Finally add a tuft or two of steel wool to the primer/acid mix for a couple of days to finally destroy the remaining explosive molecules. Shotgun primers are supposed to very difficult to deactivate as one of the priming layers seems to be impervious to any reagent and shooting them off is recommended.

Oil, WD40 etc. do not render primers safe they may temporarily stop them from being fired whilst wet but the compound will still go off if heated and the primers are still likely to fire when the oil, WD40 etc has evaporated.

I got this method years ago from an article by the late Dean A Grennell which also explained the chemistry involved but that has long been forgotten by me and never really understood. This method has served me well over the years.

If you let the primers dry after deactivation and submit them to heat, pounding and such like you will then be reassured that they are truly decommissioned.
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Re: Making primers safe

#20 Post by Dougan »

Sim G wrote:You've gone through all this and still failed at the primary objective because you didn't want to wipe your Marlin through again? Something which only gets cleaned annually?
Sorry that's offended you so much! :lol: ...but I understand...you being a serious Marlin lover (and I'm not talking about illegal large fish love razz ) - I was exaggerating a tad about the 'annual' clean...but do go 1000 rounds at least between cleans...it's the reliability of Marlins that make me love them too...

...thanks though for the advice about hitting primers with hammers...noted.
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