This section is for reloading and ammunition only, all loads found in here are used strictly at your own risk, if in doubt ask again.
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should treated as suspect and not used.
Forum rules
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
mikeb wrote:On the subject of bullet heads for range use (general target shooting and plinking). I was thinking of the .303 PPU Privi BT FMJ 174g head. £17 odd quid per 100 from Kranks.
That's what I use, they do the job for me. One or two friends use the Sierra 174gn but I'm not good enough to notice the difference - apart from in the wallet...
mikeb wrote:Also, what range of powders do you recommend with the above?
39-41gn of Vihtavuori N140, or 38-39gn of Vectan TU3000 both with PPU primers have both worked well for me. Other powders/primers are available. Your mileage may vary.
On the subject of bullet heads for range use (general target shooting and plinking). I was thinking of the .303 PPU Privi BT FMJ 174g head. £17 odd quid per 100 from Kranks
I use these with 41grains of Vitavouri N140 in my .303 rifles with good results.
Flat base bullets work better.
You are new to the hobby so buy a hundred pick a powder and load 30 of them go shoot them then come back and ask more questions.
If you're using an ordinary SMLE, neck sizing your brass will more than double its life. Some lucky milsurp and commercial rifles are tight enough not to need it.
The only reason you would not neck size would be if you were having problems feeding cartridges out of the magazine.
If you have two or more rifles with differently sized (or, occasionally, shaped) chambers, it's not unreasonable to keep the brass for each rifle separated. You can use a felt tip marker to identify which brass goes to which rifle.
As much as brass costs, I try to make it live as long as possible...
