Parallax Adjustment

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EagerNoSkill
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Parallax Adjustment

#1 Post by EagerNoSkill »

Hi All

Been having fun setting up my Parallax Adjustment properly! sign01

At 1000y the error is much more severe than at 200 or 300y and I am struggling to get comfortable.

Question 1
Is the target in perfect focus if the parallax is correctly set? sign85

Question 2
Could it also be contributing to my elevation and windage group size?
European 2012 FTR Champion (November 2012 I had +- 112 very lucky shots in a row)
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spud
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Re: Parallax Adjustment

#2 Post by spud »

to make sure youre getting rid of parrallax issues focus on your target and move your head from side to side if the target moves be hind the cross hair parrallax error is still there
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EagerNoSkill
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Re: Parallax Adjustment

#3 Post by EagerNoSkill »

Tried that Spud

Moving head up and down no movement on target but sideways still is

Where I percieve no movement I have no focus!
European 2012 FTR Champion (November 2012 I had +- 112 very lucky shots in a row)
“F-Open shooters are compensating for something”
I make an awesome friend and even worse enemy.
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spud
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Re: Parallax Adjustment

#4 Post by spud »

try altering eye releif
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Ovenpaa
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Re: Parallax Adjustment

#5 Post by Ovenpaa »

At 1000 your parallax will be all but set to infinity, and you can fine tune with your focus until you are in a position where slight up/down left/right movement of the head does not move the apparent point of impact. Good cheek weld and repeated head position is essential.

With other than my F Open rifle I have spent a lot of time getting my cheek piece exactly set up and use spacers to repeat this position. I shoot my F Open (7mmC Barnard) with a different style however I still set the parallax to infinity and then fine tune with the eyepiece. What I will say is I wear contacts and have to make slight adjustments based on my hydration as contacts can dry out slightly.
/d

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tikkathreebarrels
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Re: Parallax Adjustment

#6 Post by tikkathreebarrels »

I have heard that if you stay behind the scope for long enough, your eye and brain will overcome parallax error and therefore what you should do is take your eye from the scope (or close it for a bit) and then go again working with what you see in the first few seconds. If I grasp the subject correctly parallax is only an issue if you don't adopt the same cheekweld every time you get down behind the rifle.
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Dangermouse
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Re: Parallax Adjustment

#7 Post by Dangermouse »

Just to confirm,

The parallax adjustment is often the turret on the left or on the objective bell - these are separate from the focus which most scopes have on the end nearest the eye.

Some reading

http://www.accurateshooter.com/optics/p ... le-scopes/

And to help you check your focus here are some targets (Scroll down to "scope testing targets)
http://www.accurateshooter.com/shooting-skills/targets/

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StanDeasy
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Re: Parallax Adjustment

#8 Post by StanDeasy »

Any decent scope should be completely free of parallax error when correctly focused on the target. There will then be no visible movement in the point of aim when you move your head position, therefore consistent head position is not really critical for aiming accuracy. I have proved this by shooting my F Class rifle with the cheek-piece removed with no loss of accuracy.

Cheek weld, etc. is more about consistent shot-to-shot hold and body position than about aiming the rifle. At least that's what I've found with F Class, it may be different for other disciplines??
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Ovenpaa
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Re: Parallax Adjustment

#9 Post by Ovenpaa »

I shoot my F Open rifle with a low cheek piece across a rest and bag where tracking is important and my role is to point it in the right direction, pull the trigger and check the rearwards motion to a degree.

Shooting a discipline that requires quick follow up shots off hand, kneeling or prone with a bipod means that my head position influences the POI as much as other factors and in this respect a repeatable cheek weld makes a big difference. Smaller factors also influence where the bullet strikes, I was experimenting with my shooting hand thumb position yesterday, moving it from top to side of the hand grip (parallel to my trigger finger) moved the POI by a few inches to the right at 1000 yards and required me to modify my style slightly to get back to where I was before. OK 1000 is a bit of an extreme to test this but it certainly magnified the changes.

..and the parallax side of things? There may be occasions where I do not have time to change parallax between say a 150m and 325m shot, in a situation like this reproducing cheek weld is essential for me if I am to hit the thing I am aiming at.

Personally I believe cheek weld and position is a significant factor for the F/TR shooter regardless of how well he has his parallax setup.
/d

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