This section is for reloading and ammunition only, all loads found in here are used strictly at your own risk, if in doubt ask again.
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should treated as suspect and not used.
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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
Cleans rust and crap off most things without damaging the surface, even in the cavities.
Good idea, I'm going to stick in the ultrasonic cleaner in white spirit and gun oil for a few cycles and give them a rub with a pencil rubber first so as to avoid rounding anything off and if that doesn't work I will try one of those pens.
dromia wrote:As Derek said clean the moulds up first before deciding on them, rubbing the insides of the cavities with an ink rubber will clean them up just fine. Try driving the locating pins forward a tad or two to see it it will tighten up a bit. Strip down the lube sizers and boil them for a 1/4 of an hour or so they will clean them up just fine
Thanks for the tips and apologies for posting this in the wrong forum, for some reason it felt like something which the grizzled muzzle loading guys would be able to help with than the clean and scientific smokeless centrefire reloading types!
Boiling them seems a good idea, they are both however almost full of green RCBS lube.
What's he best way to get this stuff out first or can I just chuck them in and boil the whol lot out?
Last edited by The Lord Flashheart on Mon Aug 07, 2017 12:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I would never use old lube in a sizer, god knows what it have may have picked up that ends up on your bullets that ends up going down your barrel, good quality soft lube is cheap so why risk things for a bit of parsimony.
Come on Bambi get some
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Agreed, will be getting it all out but was wondering how long the replacement would be good for going forward? There were also some unopened but old looking sticks of lube (RCbs green and Lyman yellow) with the bits I got and I was wondering if they would be good to use if clean and unseparated looking or whether to bin them too?
I think I'm going to use white label 50/50 lube in at least one of the lubesizers as most of my lead bullet shooting will be low velocity stuff.
I'm debating whether to dedicated them to to a calibre or to a lube, assuming I need to use more than one sort of lube for higher velocity rifle
StUff as well?
You won't need different lubes White Label 50/50 is good to well over 2000 fps, I prefer their 2500+ as it is a bit softer.
Far easier to swap over sizing dies than swap lube, I currently have 2 x Lyman 45s, 1 x Lyman 450, 3 x RCBS LAMs, 1 x Vickers, 1 x SAECO, 1 x Mepos and 1 x Wamadet lubsizers on my benches at present.
Come on Bambi get some
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dromia wrote:You won't need different lubes White Label 50/50 is good to well over 2000 fps, I prefer their 2500+ as it is a bit softer.
Far easier to swap over sizing dies than swap lube, I currently have 2 x Lyman 45s, 1 x Lyman 450, 3 x RCBS LAMs, 1 x Vickers, 1 x SAECO, 1 x Mepos and 1 x Wamadet lubsizers on my benches at present.
Do you prefer softer purely on the basis on not having to use a heater then? I have a heater base plate for each of my presses with the bits.
I have a Lyman 45 and a RCBS LAM, having boiled them out last night I have found that the RCBS double o ring piston seal much better than the Lyman brass ring and so I will be going with that.
What do you think of the carnubara lubes as a one-size-fits-all solution?
Lubes don't really function as lubes they do far more than that although lubing is a small part of their function, softer lubes just work better. Harder lubes are another marketing con, look neater to mass market eyes, easier to pack and post.
I don't use heaters as I don't need to, there is no benefit from hard lubes other than cosmetic and in most applications it functions less well, soft lubes and soft alloys, easy to remember.
Heaters are a bit of a chew on and just another thing to be managed when lubsizing, they need switching off and on a lot as if you leave them on they melt the lube and it squirts all over the place and leaks out of the lubesizer, in the days when my work place was cold I would put an angle poise lamp near the heater to take the edge of it and get the lube flowing, it would then be turned off.
All the white Label lubes are excellent and none need heat in rooms that aren't actual below freezing air temperature. (He does make some commercial hard lube mixes but avoid them as you would expander balls). Carnuba red just has carnuba in it, all that does is leave the bore a bit shiner, not cleaner just shinier and it is red, you can also get carnuba blue now.
As I say I find 2500 works just fine up to my maximum 2600 fps loads, doesn't need heat and works just as well with light subsonic loadings and all points inbetween.
Come on Bambi get some
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Would White label +2500 or 50/50 work for black powder cartridge loads too? My animal fat / beeswax mix works great for my .577, no fouling, just load and shoot. I'm looking to start loading for 45/70 at some point so a one shot does it all lube for the lubamatic would be something I'd be interested in.
