New to Reloading
Moderator: dromia
Forum rules
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
New to Reloading
Hi,
I am currently shooting .22lr however in the future I would like to get both a .223 and a .308 and as ammunition looks to be expensive I would like to read up and get knowledge around reloading.
Just a couple of questions really, firstly what is the best / current reloading book?
Secondly I know you have to have an explosives license for black powder however from watching some tutorial videos people are reloading with powders that aren't classed as 'black powders' what's the difference?
Finally, I have been looking at Lee loading kits for both .223 and .308, are these kits suitable for reloading small batches I.e 25 - 30 at a time?
Thanks in advance guys.
Pete
Sent from my boing using "An application"
I am currently shooting .22lr however in the future I would like to get both a .223 and a .308 and as ammunition looks to be expensive I would like to read up and get knowledge around reloading.
Just a couple of questions really, firstly what is the best / current reloading book?
Secondly I know you have to have an explosives license for black powder however from watching some tutorial videos people are reloading with powders that aren't classed as 'black powders' what's the difference?
Finally, I have been looking at Lee loading kits for both .223 and .308, are these kits suitable for reloading small batches I.e 25 - 30 at a time?
Thanks in advance guys.
Pete
Sent from my boing using "An application"
-
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 11:55 am
- Home club or Range: Deal & District
- Location: canterbury
- Contact:
Re: New to Reloading
With regards to powders. "Black powder" is used mostly in older guns or replicas such as muskets and old revolves (typically guns that require pouring the powder in then ramming a ball in afterwards, ie don't use mettalic cartridges)
Most modern guns use what's known as smokeless powder which in simple terms creates far less smoke than black powder.
From a legal standpoint black powder is classed as an explosive whilst smokeless powders are classed as propellants.( I should add that black powder and smokeless powder cannot be used interchangable and require different loading procedures for reloading)
There's plenty of different smokeless powders out there(but ill leave that to someone who has more experience in that area)
Personally I've found .308 amd .223 can be picked up cheaply enough so I don't need to reload, but then I plan to get reloading kit anyway for my 7.5mm rifles as ammo for them is a lot more expensive.
Most modern guns use what's known as smokeless powder which in simple terms creates far less smoke than black powder.
From a legal standpoint black powder is classed as an explosive whilst smokeless powders are classed as propellants.( I should add that black powder and smokeless powder cannot be used interchangable and require different loading procedures for reloading)
There's plenty of different smokeless powders out there(but ill leave that to someone who has more experience in that area)
Personally I've found .308 amd .223 can be picked up cheaply enough so I don't need to reload, but then I plan to get reloading kit anyway for my 7.5mm rifles as ammo for them is a lot more expensive.
Re: New to Reloading
You will learn the order of things from a book which is fine and gives you an idea of the basics, but if you have the opportunity to watch a competent reloader who will pass on valuable information to enable you to pick things up then that is another route to follow. There are plenty of how to do it books on the market, but I still think that talking and watching someone do it is invaluable. For your first time reloading get someone who knows what they are doing to make sure you do it right, otherwise......... (think of the guy who is shooting alongside you!).
-
- Posts: 912
- Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 2:36 pm
- Contact:
Re: New to Reloading
I'd caution you about getting onto reloading if you think you are going to save money! You won't. Its more convenient certainly and you can work up a load that your rifle likes but you won't save money (unless you have a supply of free brass and cast your own bullets!).
I started off with a Lee Loader for .303 - its a good tool and its great for .303 as it neck sizes only but its slow and noisy as you have to use a hammer. I quickly upgraded to a Lee Classic press (more expense!!).
I started off with a Lee Loader for .303 - its a good tool and its great for .303 as it neck sizes only but its slow and noisy as you have to use a hammer. I quickly upgraded to a Lee Classic press (more expense!!).
-
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Tue May 06, 2014 11:55 am
- Home club or Range: Deal & District
- Location: canterbury
- Contact:
Re: New to Reloading
definitely agree, unless i plan to work my own loads i wouldn't bother reloading .223 or .308. what I'm doing at the moment is working though a few hundred 7.5 Swiss and 7.5 french rounds that i bought and will eventually get the necessary kit to reload using those cases.Rockhopper wrote:I'd caution you about getting onto reloading if you think you are going to save money! You won't. Its more convenient certainly and you can work up a load that your rifle likes but you won't save money (unless you have a supply of free brass and cast your own bullets!).
Really it comes down to quantity, as reloading takes time (especially when you start) and by the time you have bought all the equipment your likely to be down a few hundred quid, so if you only plan to load small batches for pinking i wouldn't really bother as it will likely work out cheaper just buying the ammo (that being said, keep your casings anyway in case you want to reload later).
Re: New to Reloading
Guys thanks for all your replies and help on this, it's just what I needed, as said I will keep casings in case I need them in future and I will speak with some club members who reload.
Thanks again.
Sent from my boing using "An application"
Thanks again.
Sent from my boing using "An application"
- WelshShooter
- Full-Bore UK Supporter
- Posts: 1812
- Joined: Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:45 pm
- Contact:
Re: New to Reloading
I use the Speer 14th edition manual which came with my press. It was decent at explaining the handloading procedure, case preparation etc. and also contains quite a lot of load data for a large variety of calibres. I'd recommend the purchase of a reloading manual produced by the bullet manufacturer you intend to use as the loads are obviously specific for their offerings. Don't forget that every powder vendor have an electronic copy of their load data online, but they use a wide variety of bullet brands so you'll have to keep that in mind.
Unfortunately you won't save much by handloading .223 and .308 in the quantities you have described. Instead, what you'll get is more accurate ammunition for the same price. You can save money on service rifle calibres such as .303brit, 8mm Mauser, 7.5 Swiss as the factory ammunition is quite pricey. I've bought 8mm Mauser factory ammo for £80 per hundred whereas I handload them for ~£50 per hundred and are more accurate that factory.
Don't forget to factor in the cost of equipment. You can go cheap with the Lee starter kit but you'll find yourself replacing those components with higher precision ones over time.
With regards to powder, black powder is classed as an explosive whereas smokeless powder (i.e. used in modern firearms) is classed as a propellant. If you make a small pile of each powder and burn them you'll find the blackpowder is very volatile whereas the smokeless powder will burn in a more controlled way. This is why the purchase and storage of blackpowder requires an explosives certificate.
Unfortunately you won't save much by handloading .223 and .308 in the quantities you have described. Instead, what you'll get is more accurate ammunition for the same price. You can save money on service rifle calibres such as .303brit, 8mm Mauser, 7.5 Swiss as the factory ammunition is quite pricey. I've bought 8mm Mauser factory ammo for £80 per hundred whereas I handload them for ~£50 per hundred and are more accurate that factory.
Don't forget to factor in the cost of equipment. You can go cheap with the Lee starter kit but you'll find yourself replacing those components with higher precision ones over time.
With regards to powder, black powder is classed as an explosive whereas smokeless powder (i.e. used in modern firearms) is classed as a propellant. If you make a small pile of each powder and burn them you'll find the blackpowder is very volatile whereas the smokeless powder will burn in a more controlled way. This is why the purchase and storage of blackpowder requires an explosives certificate.
-
- Posts: 343
- Joined: Thu Feb 11, 2016 6:33 pm
- Home club or Range: Offas Dyke, Pickering, North Cotes Butts and Grove small arms
- Location: Brookenby, Lincolnshire
Re: New to Reloading
For reloading to get to a sensible level of required equipment and quality of that equipment you can say goodbye to £1000 so that will take some time to recoup that against the cost of buying ammo over building your own
I reloaded from day one, not for cost but for consistency.
Brands such as PPU and Privi and a few others offer good value reliable fairly consistent ammo at sensible price especially in 308 & 223 so if it's economics your after stick with buying your ammo until you get to a point where you find/feel that reloading would benifit your shooting
All the reloading manuals give good instruction on construction of ammo so have a good read of as many as you can beg or borrow and if you go into reloading get an upto date version of whichever manual your gonna use as the powder and bullets vary over time and sometimes using an older manual can give problems
Good luck and enjoy which ever way you go
Duey
I reloaded from day one, not for cost but for consistency.
Brands such as PPU and Privi and a few others offer good value reliable fairly consistent ammo at sensible price especially in 308 & 223 so if it's economics your after stick with buying your ammo until you get to a point where you find/feel that reloading would benifit your shooting
All the reloading manuals give good instruction on construction of ammo so have a good read of as many as you can beg or borrow and if you go into reloading get an upto date version of whichever manual your gonna use as the powder and bullets vary over time and sometimes using an older manual can give problems
Good luck and enjoy which ever way you go
Duey
-
- Posts: 912
- Joined: Mon Nov 09, 2015 2:36 pm
- Contact:
Re: New to Reloading
The only reason I started was at the time I needed to shoot .303 ready made wasn't available so reloading was my only choice. I'm sure you could spend £1k on kit but my Lee Challenge kit for £100 has everything you need (plus about £35 per caliber for dies).
-
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Tue Apr 22, 2014 10:51 am
- Home club or Range: Pinewood
- Contact:
Re: New to Reloading
I went on an NRA reloading course at Bisley in the 80's and it was very good value. I think they still do these. They go through all the stages of reloading and safety is quite rightly strongly emphasised. As someone commented - think of the person shooting next to you when you reload (it might be me!)
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 6 guests