I have shot an S&W model 27 many times at 300 yds. All these years later, I am still surprised at the accuracy we achieved and how little sight adjustment was required.
Fred
Reloading .357magnum and .38special
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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
Re: Reloading .357magnum and .38special
Same here but couldn't run to a 27 so shot a model 28 (highway patrolman) instead.FredB wrote:I have shot an S&W model 27 many times at 300 yds. All these years later, I am still surprised at the accuracy we achieved and how little sight adjustment was required.
Fred

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Re: Reloading .357magnum and .38special
My one attempt at Long Range Pocket Pistol was my last..!! an ex Police S&W Model 19, 2 1/2 inch barrel...firing factory .357 magnums....!!
I think I hit the target a couple of times, but I made the mistake of going on a detail with a load of BP shooters, so I couldn't see the target most of the time
I decided that discipline wasn't for me....
I think I hit the target a couple of times, but I made the mistake of going on a detail with a load of BP shooters, so I couldn't see the target most of the time

I decided that discipline wasn't for me....
Re: Reloading .357magnum and .38special
I believe that Black Powder shooters are a breed to themselves and are best left to a range to themselves. 

Re: Reloading .357magnum and .38special
Jack,
I have read your post as being new to reloading - sorry if I have this wrong.
I reload 357/38 special for lever action. You need to reload for your rifle and the components you are using. Check the reload manual (for your powder and bullet type and weight) and start with the light load and make up 10 rounds same weight with 0.2grain increments (Eg. 5.0, 5.2, 5.4, 5.6, 5.8 etc). Get a benchrest shoot 5 rounds of each weight and make note on target - next 5 rounds new target. Test each weight with 5 rounds then repeat with the other five. You will find the groupings will alter to your rifle, your powder, bullet etc.
You are just checking for group after you have selected best load you can zero rifle.
As cases have been mentioned above I have found they cycle different in my lever action: Geco = okay, Remington=can be a bit stiff, PPU=cycle really nice.
When you buy components look for what you can get locally/easy. So you can repeat buy the same components thus you don't have to keep making test loads or re-zero etc. The idea of reloading is to have consistent ammunition.
I would stick to 357 or 38 special as loads are different and you will have to re-zero etc for different ammo. Unless you have a reason to need both.
Hope this helps, Tim
PS....
Last bit of advice is to take any info you read on a website/forum and check against an official reload manual. You don't want any accidents.
I have read your post as being new to reloading - sorry if I have this wrong.
I reload 357/38 special for lever action. You need to reload for your rifle and the components you are using. Check the reload manual (for your powder and bullet type and weight) and start with the light load and make up 10 rounds same weight with 0.2grain increments (Eg. 5.0, 5.2, 5.4, 5.6, 5.8 etc). Get a benchrest shoot 5 rounds of each weight and make note on target - next 5 rounds new target. Test each weight with 5 rounds then repeat with the other five. You will find the groupings will alter to your rifle, your powder, bullet etc.
You are just checking for group after you have selected best load you can zero rifle.
As cases have been mentioned above I have found they cycle different in my lever action: Geco = okay, Remington=can be a bit stiff, PPU=cycle really nice.
When you buy components look for what you can get locally/easy. So you can repeat buy the same components thus you don't have to keep making test loads or re-zero etc. The idea of reloading is to have consistent ammunition.
I would stick to 357 or 38 special as loads are different and you will have to re-zero etc for different ammo. Unless you have a reason to need both.
Hope this helps, Tim
PS....
Last bit of advice is to take any info you read on a website/forum and check against an official reload manual. You don't want any accidents.
Re: Reloading .357magnum and .38special
I use Starline .357 brass in my Marlin. I have found that 4.5 grains of HP38 is very accurate at shorter ranges. One thing it isn't is easy to metre through a powder dropper. Something to think about.
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