Beginning moulding for rifle

[ptheta]

Hi all,
I've been moulding and reloading 12G slug for sometime but recently started reloading .38 and .303 as well. I've just managed to source a load of scrap linotype pretty cheaply and I'm wondering the best way to use it. I was planning on using this primarily for the .38 but might venture into using some for the .303 later on. I don't want to complicate the .303 loading just yet having just started.

Anyway, what I was wondering was if I should just use this stuff as it is or mix it with some soft lead. Also, any recommendations on the mould I should use? I was assuming I could just mould the bullets, shake them in a bag with some liquid alox and then load then up once they've dried off. This isn't quite the same as the bullets that I'm using right now, they're Tim Hannan's .358 TC and have a lube band in them.

I'd welcome some pointers so I don;t screw up too badly! Also, I shall be at the Phoenix on the Friday so maybe I can hook up with some of you guys and have a chat?

Regards,
Paul.

[dromia]

First thing you need to do is slug the barrels of your rifles. Once you know the groove and bore diameter that will help you select a mould.

Using as cast, provide the bullet is at least grovve diameter and ideally 2 thou over groove diameter, tumble lubed in Xlox should give good results up to at least 1200 fps and I've had the stuff work at 1600 fps.

You really need to cut the linotype to soften it as on its own its far too hard and brittle for most applications and will lead. I would cut 1 part linotype with 2 parts + of any thing from soft lead sheeting, range scrap especially 22rf, to wheel weights. Soft boolits shoot far better than hard unless you are doing post grad casting for 2000 fps + with accuracy.

The main use of linotype is in providing tin having around 4%. It has typically 12% antimony which is the main hardener.

I'll be at Bisley arms fair from Thursday pm 26th through to Monday 30th if you want to come along to the Pukka Bundhooks stand for a bit crack.

[ptheta]

Thanks for that, Dromia. It all makes more sense now.

Given that I already have some .358 bullets can I just push one of those down the barrel with my cleaning rod to slug it or should I use something a bit bigger? I'm just thinking of my .38 Rossi lever action here.

I'll drop by and say hi at the Phoenix.

Thanks,
Paul.

[dromia]

You really want something a bit bigger and softer, I would use a .375" .36 cal round ball. Do you know any BP pistol shooters?

[ptheta]

I could probably scrounge one of those off someone or have a hunt through my fishing tackle box now that I know what size I want.

Can I expect this to go through with just a firm shove or should I expect to have to use a mallet?

Thanks again,
Paul.

[dromia]

Secure the barrel firmly upright and ensure that the bore is oiled, set the oiled ball on the muzzle and cover witha bit of 2 x 4 or such like to stop the oil splatters. Strike the ball smartly with a soft faced hammer to seat the ball into the bore, remove the cloth and the ball should be seated flush with the muzzle having a ring of lea shaved off.

Once seated the slug should push through easily with a steel rod, do it slowly so that you can feel for any tight spots in the barrel. Retrieve the slug from the receiver, clean and measure.

[ptheta]

That sounds pretty easy, thanks.

I have to admit that I was a bit worried about it as I've read so much about the importance of looking after the crown that the idea of battering something on to it did seem a little reckless.