This section is for reloading and ammunition only, all loads found in here are used strictly at your own risk, if in doubt ask again.
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should treated as suspect and not used.
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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
Chapuis wrote:Surely its not really possible to properly test the relative hardness of a bullet using a factory crimp die?
Primer you are aware that load data for jacketed and lead bullets is totally different for the same weight of bullet?
What reloading manual using and getting your load data from?
I have to admit that when I reloaded 9mm for pistol I found it a bit of a pain compared to .45acp or any of the straight walled revolver cartridges that I loaded for. I did find that a taper crimp die was a great investment and an absolute positive help as regards feeding.
I'm using the vihtavuori reloading manual (4th Edition) and the Lee modern reloading (2nd Edition) and following the load for 124gn fmj - rn for the N 320. I may try the loads for the 3n37 as they show a better fps and it's a slightly slower powder.
I'm using the Lee die set inc factory taper die and had no problems with the lead rounds I was making.
Chapuis wrote:Surely its not really possible to properly test the relative hardness of a bullet using a factory crimp die?
Yes it is.
You will see if one is substantially harder than another form this, it won't give you a bhn but it will give an indication of relative hardness 'tween two bullets, close enough for pit work.
Come on Bambi get some
Imperial Good Metric Bad
Analogue Good Digital Bad
I would use the 3n37 as I think it was made for that cartridge.
Or maybe it was made for making major out of 9mm race guns?
When I loaded 9mm a popular powder was bluedot which is relatively slow.
I also used 2400 but the muzzle flash scared people!
Tony
Chapuis wrote:Surely its not really possible to properly test the relative hardness of a bullet using a factory crimp die?
Yes it is.
You will see if one is substantially harder than another form this, it won't give you a bhn but it will give an indication of relative hardness 'tween two bullets, close enough for pit work.
What about variances in case hardness due to differing annealing, that is assuming that you are using the factory crimp die on a loaded case?
I can't see how you can get any valid judgement myself, certainly nothing better than say diging your thumbnail into the bullet and trying to judge it that way. I'm sorry dromia but you haven't convinced me yet that you can get a valid judgement using a crimp die to judge bullet hardness.
How about the Lee hardness tester, do you have any experience of using this piece of kit. At least this uses a slightly more scientific means of testing hardness of lead bullets.
The Lee hardness tester works with a struggle, I have found it clumsily unusable.
My hardness tester of choice is the Cabine Tree.
You could also use a ball bearing a vice and a caliper measure.
Scratching with a finger nail is also a method I use in my casting workshop, as I said it won't give a BHN but you can get a feel for pure, wheel weights and lino.
Dropping and ingot on a concrete floor will easily give a different sound 'tween lino which rings and pure lead which gives a thud
At the end of the day the method was suggested to the OP (which I support from experience hence my post) as a quick and rough way of checking if one bullet was substantially harder than the other with what the OP may have had at hand which may have helped him understand his issue, no one was suggesting it was a sophisticated and accurate BHN measuring tool.
Come on Bambi get some
Imperial Good Metric Bad
Analogue Good Digital Bad
No I haven't used the Lee hardness tester dromia, and reading all the bumf on it had me seriously wondering just how well it worked as it doesn't strike me as easy to use or very accurate system either.
I think I will stick to the thumb nail system.
I have my LR 9 on it's way, someimited 9mm in stock and am preparing to set up for reloading but the more I read through the 50some pages on here there more it seems like a minefield. I
I've just revisited this load and swapped powders from n320 to 3n37 using the 124grn fmj and also put the data through Quickload and had much better results.
Factory magtecs gave an average fps of 1276
6.5grn gave 1358fps QL suggests 1424fps and 25854psi (CIP max for cartridge 34084psi)
6.8grn gave 1373fps QL suggests 1467fps and 28413psi
7.0grn gave 1419fps QL suggests 1509fps and 31189psi
7.2grn gave 1454fps QL suggests 1530fps and 32665psi
Think I may settle for either 6.5 or 6.8grn for this load.
I will continue to use the 3.4grn of n320 for my 125grn hardcast lead loads as it gives a consistent 980ish fps.
