.38 OR .357

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All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should treated as suspect and not used.

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Forum rules
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.

Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
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dodgyrog
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Re: .38 OR .357

#11 Post by dodgyrog »

Dougan wrote:Hi Rog,

I bought a Winchester (now switched for a Marlin) that had had only 38s down it...there was a raised carbon ring in the chamber that prevented chambering .357, and was a bugger to fully remove...

...out of interest, can you feel any resistance when you chamber a .357 in yours?
No, but I do clean my gun! lol
Purveyor of fine cast boolits.
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Dougan

Re: .38 OR .357

#12 Post by Dougan »

I clean my TR and classic rifles after every shoot (all copper bullets), but I find that with the gallery rifles (though I'm relatively new to the game) that you can clean them too much - Full strip-downs can encourage problems (lever and semi-autos), and it seems to take quite a few rounds (even with the best of boolits ;) ) to gain accuracy again after cleaning the barrel...so I try to time a full clean to about a month before an important comp, and then put a good few hundred practice rounds down...
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dromia
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Re: .38 OR .357

#13 Post by dromia »

The fouling problem at the mouth of the chamber is actually down to poor boolits rather than the gap between the case mouth and the start of the throat, even with 357 cases there will still be the step as most cases never really fit the chamber well enough to close that gap.

Fouling comes from too hard an alloy, poor boolit fit and a poor lube. All this contributes to fouling and if you are getting that then the step at the case mouth is the first place it will collect.

Fouling in front of the case mouth is normal but with proper alloy and boolit fit then there should be no lead in the fouling, using a good soft lube will help keep the primer and powder fouling soft so that a "ring" doesn't build up with each round clearing the fouling of the previous one. A pass with a patch covered in Ed's Red is all that is needed to clean with after use.

Almost all commercial cast boolits that I have had the misfortune to use have been too hard, too small and carrying a hard lube that is as much use as alcohol free beer, they foul, lead and rarely shoot well.

Lead boolit shooting guns should definitely not be over cleaned. In fact I rarely clean mine, I am fortunate that they are kept in a dry gun room, if moisture was an issue then one pass with an Ed's Red soaked patch is all I'd do and then a pass with a dry patch before firing.

I put 200 rounds of cast through my 03 yesterday at a velocity of just over 1800 fps, the barrel was clean and shiny when finished, cleaning was a wipe to the bolt face and and an overall wipe down with an oiled cloth, then back in the rack. The bore wasn't touched. That rifle with cast boolits will put the shots in the 10 ring all day if I do my bit, with no fouling. I know for a fact that the cases are short for the chamber and there is a gap 'tween the case mouth and the throat but I have no fouling build up or cleaning issues as I have ensured good boolit fit, a suitably soft alloy and a decent soft lube.
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Re: .38 OR .357

#14 Post by Dougan »

Thanks for the clarification Adam :good: - I hadn't noticed a ring since getting the Marlin, but then I switched to Rog's lovely soft bullets soon after getting it.

I keep meaning to ask Rog what he puts in the lube...I'm sure I can smell coconut in the last lot...?
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Re: .38 OR .357

#15 Post by dromia »

He got a batch of used Brazilian hair depilation wax cheap on thievebay so he has been using that.
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Come on Bambi get some

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Fecking stones

Real farmers don't need subsidies

Cow's farts matter!

For fine firearms and requisites visit

http://www.pukkabundhooks.com/
Dougan

Re: .38 OR .357

#16 Post by Dougan »

Ooouuuwww! :lol:
Ivyravens

Re: .38 OR .357

#17 Post by Ivyravens »

Wow, I like the two of that, but I really like the 357 cause its better than 38, and its was powerful than 38 i think.
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Re: .38 OR .357

#18 Post by dromia »

Welcome Ivyravens!

Why not introduce yourself on the New Members forum?
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Come on Bambi get some

Imperial Good Metric Bad
Analogue Good Digital Bad

Fecking stones

Real farmers don't need subsidies

Cow's farts matter!

For fine firearms and requisites visit

http://www.pukkabundhooks.com/
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dodgyrog
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Re: .38 OR .357

#19 Post by dodgyrog »

Dougan wrote:Thanks for the clarification Adam :good: - I hadn't noticed a ring since getting the Marlin, but then I switched to Rog's lovely soft bullets soon after getting it.

I keep meaning to ask Rog what he puts in the lube...I'm sure I can smell coconut in the last lot...?
If I tell you I'd have to kill you!
Purveyor of fine cast boolits.
All round good guy and VERY grumpy old man.
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dodgyrog
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Re: .38 OR .357

#20 Post by dodgyrog »

Coincidentally, I am casting the RNFP boolits today - sizing them to .358" and with the black magic lube going onto them. Luvvly Jubbly!
Purveyor of fine cast boolits.
All round good guy and VERY grumpy old man.
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