This section is for reloading and ammunition only, all loads found in here are used strictly at your own risk, if in doubt ask again.
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should treated as suspect and not used.
Forum rules
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.
Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
Do you/how do you heat your mold Adam? And do you just let it run with the temperature its gets to naturally with the molding or do you cool it at all?
Aluminium gets dipped in the melt, iron gets a blow torch and brass sits on a hot plate.
Joe is like me when working a pot he doesn't like using gloves as you can't feel for the pour with gloves on, ordinary glasses work fine to protect the eyes from any wee splashes that may occur.
When smelting however the risk of the tinsel fairy is far greater so the full kit is worn then.
Come on Bambi get some
Imperial Good Metric Bad
Analogue Good Digital Bad
Regarding gas checks it depends on the design and the application, mostly I can get get plain based or non gaschecked, gaschecked designs to shoot OK up to around 1600 fps. However some gas checked designs in some rifles need a gas check to perform at any velocity.
For 1000 yrds plus loads I use range scrap with no more than 20% linotype, depends on the range scrap plus (and this is the important ingredient) no more than 1% copper. You don't want a hard alloy, you want a tough and malleable alloy, my long range alloys usually have a brinnel hardness of around 18.
Cost, I couldn't say but it has to be a lot cheaper than condoms as nearly all my materials are obtained for free. Obviously there is a cost in moulds and a furnace if you go that way but good boolits can be cast from a mould, iron pot, dipper and a camping stove. Your capital expenditure will soon disappear the more you cast, I don't think my stuff owes me anything any more, just the electricity and gas is the only real cost, I don't count my time as it is part of the hobby I enjoy. I'm shooting at least 1000 cast boolits a month in various calibres. Wouldn't like to have to pull out cash money every month for bought boolits at that rate of shooting, like all things handloading you don't actually save money but you do shoot more.
Come on Bambi get some
Imperial Good Metric Bad
Analogue Good Digital Bad