Attaching gun cabinets to timber frame?

[ovenpaa]

Have you spoken to your FEO about this?

[Polchraine]

Have you spoken to your FEO about this?

See his post at 09:21 ...

He says he needs to, but going armed with suggestions makes the discussion easier.

[jmc67]

No, not spoken with the FEO yet - just wanted to get peoples thoughts on here, so atleast I can go to them with options. In the middle a of stint of travelling at the moment, but will be back later in the week and can talk with them then. Thanks for the advice guys - I know a lot more now than I did when I asked the question.

[jmc67]

Spoke with my local FEO about this this morning. Interesting chat and he was very helpful. His opinion was that as long as the fixing bolts pick up the studs then that would be fine. He also liked it when I suggested that I could measure the heights of the holes in the back of the cabinets and put in extra studs/noggins in the wall at these positions to give it more strength/structure. Given more houses now have this timber frame construction, he says he's seeing it more and more now.

[Polchraine]

Sounds good and you have a reasonable FEO.

You might want to consider using screws and not nails for the studs and noggins behind the cabinet and either side - specifying 6x100 or 6x130 screws and maybe a couple of plates on each join.

[jmc67]

Cheers Polchraine, yeah he's a very pragmatic guy. Good points. The good thing is the extension will be a worskshop/gun area so I have a bit flexibility on the final finish and we can leave the wall open until the gun cabinets are ready to go in - that way we can get the position of the bolt holes really accurately measured.

[Polchraine]

Rather than bolts you should use Coach Screws 10mm diameter and as long as the plasterboard, ply and stud are thick!

[jmc67]

Makes sense. Not going to skimp on construction here, so there should be plenty of wood for them to bite into. Cheers :)

[kennyc]

Hmm, me thinks a call with the FEO will be needed when I get home. Starting to go back towards the idea of a normal cavity wall with 2 layers of brick - sacrifice 50mm of thickness, but should make all the fixings much easier....

If you go that route there are options that will allow you to recover some lost space. High quality cavity insulation such as Celotex or Kingspan is a lot thinner than Rockwool; two offset layers20mm thick will be better than 70mm of Rockwool and you can then reduce the cavity size from 100mm maybe down to just 70mm. Certain blocks can be obtained in 75mm thickness rather than the standard 100mm which could give you another 25mm. You could use "Paint Grade" blocks which will alleviate the need for plaster and when well laid they look fine.

One example of a 7N block in 75mm http://www.travisperkins.co.uk/p/solid- ... 63/3893434 You can also get lightweight Aircrete 3N blocks and there are some excellent fixings for those. Some FEO may not like "Breeze" but Aircrete if installed correctly and te right fixings used will be sufficient (subject to you architect confirming loads and construction).

sounds good, but will planning control accept a 70mm cavity?

[dromia]

Why not make the whole room a gun cabinet, 1" steel mesh on walls and ceiling, bars on any windows and a suitable speccied door as per the home office guidance.


https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/s ... ndbook.pdf