Cadet and Rook rifles

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#1 Post by **HistoricBore** » Sat Jul 08, 2017 1:38 pm

As a new member to this forum, perhaps I have missed any earlier comments/ conversations about Rook rifles and their reloading, This would be for such weird calibres as .297/250, .295/300 Rook, the fairly common .310 Cadet, etc.

Are you out there, or perhaps you have questions that I might answer??

HistoricBore

#2 Post by **FredB** » Sat Jul 08, 2017 7:15 pm

What is "weird" about the old Rook Rifle calibres. We have been shooting them for 20 years at my club without problem----plus lots of other obsolete rounds.
Fred

#3 Post by **Alpha1** » Sat Jul 08, 2017 7:57 pm

.310 cadet re loading has been covered before and probably rook rifles as well.

#4 Post by **dromia** » Sun Jul 09, 2017 4:16 am

"Weird calibres", how come you by that?

They appear regularly on the ranges and clubs I use, the real issue with them is the ridiculous prices being asked for them. As soon as someone writes books about a type of gun then the prices rocket as a whole raft of new "collectors" and "experts" set out to buy.

I have owned and shot many rifles in those calibres. Although I sold off my Rook rifle collection a few years ago now, I am still shooting and loading for .310 Cadet and the 295/300.

Loading for such calibres nowadays is a doddle due to the availability of good affordable bespoke bullet moulds. As with all cast bullet shooting, good bullet fit, soft alloy and appropriate lube is all you need.

Lots of past discussion on here especially for the 310 Cadet, what would you like to know specifically?

The forum's search function is your friend.

#5 Post by **Ovenpaa** » Sun Jul 09, 2017 7:47 am

Sadly the only Rook rifles I have shot recently were butchered in a previous life and are now .410 Great fun to shoot however... I have been looking for a Rook rifle for ages now and I am not sure I will ever own one, they attract a ridiculous premium these days and even the .22LR and .410 versions seem to have huge price tags on them.

#6 Post by **HistoricBore** » Sun Jul 09, 2017 9:53 am

I haven't spotted the Search function yet, so will and look for it.

HB

#7 Post by **meles meles** » Sun Jul 09, 2017 6:16 pm

If rook rifles are for shooting rooks, are cadet rifles for shooting cadets... ?

#8 Post by **Andy632** » Sun Jul 09, 2017 7:13 pm

Mine was butchered/modified many moons ago to take .38 S&W.

#9 Post by **HistoricBore** » Sun Jul 09, 2017 10:22 pm

A slight rechambering to .38 S&W (but not Special) is actually a very good conversion. It is virtually the same as the old .380 Long. Hollow base wadcutter bullets usually work well, but don't try to seat them completely inside the case! I had a martini action one like this for years, and it was great. A pal in Devon shot two foxes with his from his kitchen...

HB

#10 Post by **FredB** » Mon Jul 10, 2017 9:08 am

I don't understand why you need to modify a .360--380 rook rifle to take 38 S&W brass. They fit perfectly in several rifles that I have owned over the decades, As stated above, you can use 38 Special hollow based wad cutters without shortening the cases. It all depends on your groove diameter. .360 no5 usually slugs at .372" but some .380 long rifles come out at .375" or above. For these, you need short brass and the correct healed bullet. With the light loads used, obturation becomes an issue with shortened 38 special brass, leading to blackened cases and vertical stringing on the target. The few extra thou in diameter of the 38 S&W brass makes all the difference.
Fred

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