Cadet and Rook rifles

This section is for reloading and ammunition only, all loads found in here are used strictly at your own risk, if in doubt ask again.
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should treated as suspect and not used.

Moderator: dromia

Forum rules
All handloading data posted on Full-Bore UK from 23/2/2021 must reference the published pressure tested data it was sourced from, posts without such verification will be removed.
Any existing data without such a reference should be treated as suspect and not used.

Use reloading information posted here at your own risk. This forum (http://www.full-bore.co.uk) is not responsible for any property damage or personal injury as a consequence of using reloading data posted here, the information is individual members findings and observations only. Always verify the load data and be absolutely sure your firearm can handle the load, especially older ones. If in doubt start low and work your way up.
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spikedueller
Posts: 127
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:21 pm
Home club or Range: Minsterly
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Re: Cadet and Rook rifles

#11 Post by spikedueller »

A copy of Colin Greenwood's "The Classic British Rook and Rabbit Rifle" would be a good start to your initial query. It does provide basic loading information on many of the common rounds in use.

At my club weird calibre's equals anything that isn't .22 .303 or .38/357, they once changed my records to alter my .375" H&H to .357" magnum as they had "assumed" I'd made a typo.

It is sad that a lot were butchered when the firearms laws changed, attitudes compounded this, one of our club members once being told .300" Rook? that sounds almost as big as a .303" you'd better have a .22" instead...

Yes indeed the prices have rocketed, when I first started shooting you could barely give them away but once off ticket prices climbed and 4 figure prices seem to be asked for now.

I'm not sure why .38"S&W would be good conversion, perhaps back in the day someone had a bucket load of ammo but zero appreciation for history.
HistoricBore
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Re: Cadet and Rook rifles

#12 Post by HistoricBore »

I agree totally. I have a large stash of .38 S&W cases from my revolver shooting days just for this reason.
FredB
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Re: Cadet and Rook rifles

#13 Post by FredB »

Do not use the loads in Colin Greenwood's book. They are hot.
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spikedueller
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Re: Cadet and Rook rifles

#14 Post by spikedueller »

Indeed as Fred said the loads are a bit on the warm side, like with any load data use it at your own risk. Just because it's safe in someone else's rifle doesn't mean its safe in yours.
Still after seeing someone load factory .357 magnum into a.380" on the basis that it fitted and that was all he could get and wouldn't hear that it was a dangerous practice you have to wonder if some people shouldn't be allowed near firearms.
Mike
nunhead
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Re: Cadet and Rook rifles

#15 Post by nunhead »

IF you re-chamber to .38S&W you put the rifle OUT of Proof -- o.k. to still possess it but if transferred you commit an offence under the Gunbarrel Proof Acts AND you have also desecrated an original historic rifle. The OTHER problem is that the rifle is no longer in an "obsolete chambering" (Home Office list) so the rifle becomes a Section 1 firearm. If you are shooting it then it should be on your Firearm Certificate anyway. I presume that if you INSIST on doing this that you will attach a label to the rifle to advise future owners of the situation.
Take Fred's advice --- he knows FAR more than most people about this!
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